What Denver power brokers, money-drenched tourists and suited tots forced by their parents to adopt the Emily Post regimen would do without this bastion of elegance in the Brown Palace is anyone's guess. The Palace Arms dances to Old World sensibilities and is one of the last high-end standbys in the city, where pinstripes and ties are the norm, and hushed conversations — occasionally interrupted by clinking glasses marking a celebration — are still a sign of courtesy. The food, which has become more innovative in recent years, is rendered flawlessly by a fastidious kitchen that turns out everything from venison carpaccio and Hudson Valley foie gras torchon to Colorado-raised bison with truffles and lamb loin with mint yogurt and lemon-black pepper jus. Augmented by a superb wine list, a dinner here is an expensive night out, but worth the splurge at least once in your lifetime.