The original Fontana Sushi is all about quiet pleasures. The menu offers tempura and gyoza, donburi plates and soba noodles in a subtle, restrained setting that evokes the peace and calm of a Japanese garden. The sushi cooks work flavors with classical appeal, too: For the green roll, each piece of avocado is shaved with robotic precision, and the spicy tuna inside is more nuanced and flavorful than most sushi joints around.
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While the Chen brothers now have their own Fontana Sushi in Littleton (see review, page 57), former partner Kevin Lin continues to run the original Fontana Sushi in central Denver. The two Fontanas have similar menus -- both places ...
Eels and tofu, sweet raw shrimp and tuna head and giant clam -- I eat it all. Flying-fish eggs, as alien to a suburban rust-belt brat as eating asbestos or living on freon and Pixy Stix, are now a regular part of my diet. They get c...
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