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Mark Antonation

Lucky Cat

Mark Antonation
Chef/restaurateur Troy Guard isn't content with the status quo. His Lowry outpost of bubu may not always have been packed to the rafters, but it certainly had its fans. Guard had his ear to the ground in east Denver, though, listening for what the neighborhood needed — and that turned out to be Chinese food with fun, modern flair done in typical TAG style. Dim sum gets modernized with Lucky Cat's siu mai, bao buns, spare ribs and turnip cakes, while Chinese-American classics become somehow simultaneously bolder and lighter than their takeout-kitchen counterparts. The evidence is in General Guard's chicken, tasty enough to vanquish General Tso from the stir-fry battlefield.

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