Starting at 6 a.m., the faithful elbow their way through the doors of Pico de Gallo, a comradely strip-mall Mexican joint, looking for the town's best breakfast burrito. Stuffed like a sumo wrestler before his next throwdown, the griddled tortilla is packed with scrambled eggs, crumbles of housemade chorizo that drip with just the right amount of hot grease, and face-slapping roasted jalapenos. And because that's not enough bulk, the kitchen amps it up with cheese, potatoes and a liberal ladleful of spicy green chile. It's everything you require from a breakfast burrito -- and so much more. The other south-of-the-border specialties the kitchen turns out throughout the day are just as impressive.
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Gutsy, that's what it is. Opening any restaurant in any location on any day takes guts, but opening a small Mexican joint (of which there are already roughly 17 million in the Denver area) in the middle of a recession that has seen ...