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The Conversation at Cucina Colore:

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“Stop giving him pork chops!”

The woman is hissing, eyes flashing, using her mom voice on her husband, one arm thrown protectively over the top of the car seat beside her on the banquette, two tables down from me.

“I’m not giving him pork chops. I’m giving him pieces from the sandwich. Little pieces.”

“He’s a baby. Babies don’t eat pork chops.”

Says who? I want to say.

The husband (a Chad, I think, or maybe a Lance -- right off the pages of the J. Crew summer catalogue in his polo shirt, cargo shorts and expensively disheveled haircut) drops his hands, palms flat on the table, just hard enough to make the silverware clatter. An expression of definace in defeat. He looks at his wife, then out the window, then at his wife again, and I just know what he’s thinking: If I make a break for it right now…

It’s all talk and no action this week at Cucina Colore, a Cherry Creek mainstay – and why? I love the Momo family’s other restaurant, Via, which I reviewed a few months ago. But there’s nothing modern, much less original, at this allegedly “contemporary Italian” restaurant.

Also coming in this week’s edition, available tomorrow on newsstands or at this same web address: a reconsideration of Café Jordano and a report from Greenwood Village on the latest additions to the Master empire --Annabel’s and Montecito South, the sibling restaurants that Mel and Jane Master opened side-by-side a few months back. And a nice little fight over Texas barbecue picked by an angry reader who thinks I’m giving the Lone Star State short shrift.

I’m not. I just can’t figure what those friggin’ people got against pigs. – Jason Sheehan

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