100 Favorite Dishes

100 Favorite Dishes: Biscuits and Green Chile at the Noshery

No. 88: Biscuits and Green Chile at the Noshery
The sun's pouring through a window, illuminating the steam from a cup of coffee next to a big plate of biscuits and green chile. Two eggs, sunny-side up, fill in the remaining white space on the plate. Inside the Noshery at 50th and Lowell, a meditative calm emanates from the genial staffers who quietly explain pastry choices in the case full of housemade turnovers, tarts and quick breads — and from the space itself, done up in robin's egg blue and country white.

The Noshery is more than just a coffeehouse; it's also a bakery that makes bread for its own sandwiches, a hangout for Regis University students and faculty, and a full kitchen capable of pulling off perfect fried eggs — a far cry from the standard microwaved pucks that many kitchenless coffee shops insert into breakfast sandwiches.

The biscuits are baked here, too; they're firm yet fluffy inside with a sturdy crust that makes a hollow sound when tapped with a fork. You can get your biscuits topped with creamy country gravy, which wouldn't be a mistake, or you can opt for the house green chile, which is more of a pork stew napped in a thick, brownish-green sauce. It's on the mild end, as far as green chile goes, but with just enough gentle heat to keep in harmony with the surroundings. This is a big, hearty plate of food that rings in at a reasonable $8.75, but the Noshery has plenty to offer for appetites of all sizes. For something fun and light, try the potato waffles with house-smoked salmon and chive creme fraiche.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2016 countdown are linked below.

No. 100: Masala Beef at Biju's Little Curry Shop
No. 99: Bacon Shrimp and Grits at Bacon Social House
No. 98: Porchetta and Kimchi Sandwich at Brider
No. 97: Squab-and-Sunchoke Tortellini at Abejas
No. 96: Housemade Burrata at Viand
No, 95: Schweinshaxe at Rhein Haus
No. 94 Kimchi Jeon at Seoul BBQ
No. 93: Zuppa Pomodoro at Parisi Italian Market & Deli
No. 92: The Ocean Salad at Sushi-Rama
No. 91: The Signature Bowl from Churn & Burn
No. 90: Green Chorizo at Los Compadres
No. 89: The Diavola Calzone at Pino's Neighborhood Pizzeria
KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.
Contact: Mark Antonation