No. 82 Scallop Crudo at Stoic & Genuine 1701 Wynkoop Street (Union Station) 303-640-3474
Stoic & Genuine is the fourth restaurant in Jennifer Jasinski and Beth Gruitch's downtown stable of praised eateries, after Rioja, Bistro Vendome and Euclid Hall. The compact but airy seafood harbor captures the casual energy of the surrounding Union Station, with a touch of elegance reminiscent of the heyday of railroads. Chef de Cuisine Jorel Pierce brings with him his fondness for bold flavors and a touch of whimsy from his tenure at Euclid Hall; a flash-seared Georges Bank scallop from the crudo menu impressed us most with its combination of beauty, simplicity and fun.
See also: 100 Favorite Dishes of 2014
Two disks of scallop rest on a fan of thin-sliced fresh Palisade peaches, adding the sweet flesh of the scallop -- barely touched by flame on the outer edge -- to the sweetness of the stone fruit. A verdant pool of chilled champagne and basil consomme ups the flavor, highlighted by sunny dots of pureed peach.
It seems almost too much, but the result is a seesaw balance of all the elements: the sweetness against the tartness of the peach, the dryness of the champagne, the herbal bitterness of the basil and the savory brine of the scallop. It's a refreshing summer dish that captures the Colorado harvest at its peak without overwhelming the delicacy of the Massachusetts-sourced seafood. And when the scallop is gone, it's tempting to tip the bowl back and drink the consomme -- but the hustling staff at Stoic & Genuine will be more than happy to bring you a spoon.
In advance of the Best of Denver 2015, we're already loading our plates with contenders for the best dishes in the city. And over the next nine months, we'll be sharing many of them with you, counting down (in no particular order) one hundred of our favorite dishes before the the Best of Denver 2015 hits the streets on March 26. In the meantime, if there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2014 countdown are linked below.
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