Barbed Wire Reef Rebrands and Launches Brunch With a New Focus on Mexican Fare

In 2011, Barbed Wire Reef started as a food truck, roots it won't soon forget: The truck is parked smack dab in the middle of its brick-and-mortar location at 4499 West 38th Avenue in Berkeley. But a lot has changed since then, including the most recent development: a rebrand complete with a new name, Barbed Wire Reef GourMexican.

"At the end of the day, we're really a tequila bar at heart," says general manager Jeremy Alvarez, a sentiment that's echoed by the Instagram-ready "Tequila Made Me Do It" neon sign that hangs in the space.

Barbed Wire Reef 2.0 was created with the goal of replicating the sights, smells and flavors of eating in a five-star Tulum outdoor resort, but much closer to home. "I wanted to create the laid-back atmosphere of Tulum with flavorful, unexpected dishes of that region while still being true to the Mexican dishes of my youth," explains owner Rico Aragon. "The result is a modern Mexican food and cocktail menu with vibrant colors and flavors, with a twist of American influence, like the truffle guacamole."

On December 17, the restaurant will launch its weekend brunch, as well. Yoon Terry, the company's chief operating officer, is particularly excited about the smoked salmon toast ($15). "Think fresh, quality, composed food," she says. "We don't overlook details. I think the salmon is going to really pop, with its jalapeño aioli, chimichurri, chili, radish and soft boiled egg. We eat with our eyes."

For Alvarez, the ricotta pancakes with berry compote and pomegranate-rosemary maple syrup are a standout. "Again, it's the details with chef Javier Sanchez," he notes. "The pickled cantaloupe and grapes that accompany our lamb shank are incredible; folks just want to order a bowl of that. Even the microgreens are so fresh and flavorful. It really changes the flavor profile and enhances the vibe of the food."
There are plenty of brunch cocktails with catchy names to wet your whistle, too. Lilac You a Lot, for example, is a bouquet of Exotico Blanco tequila, wild chai tea, lavender-infused agave and Baileys Almande ($13); the Kiss My Hass is made with avocado purée; and the playful Kernel has Herradura Reposado Ancho Reyes liqueur, sweet corn syrup and charred lime ($14). The mocktails are equally thoughtful.

"We crafted up cocktails that stayed true to Mexican recipes while really playing with and connecting seemingly opposing flavors, like you find in Kiss My Hass and the Kernel," Terry says.

The return of brunch to the location has been a long time in the making. "Since we opened in 2018 to today, the neighborhood was just hungry to bring brunch back, and we're thrilled to do so," Terry adds. "When you hear 'Mexican restaurant,' you think heavy rice and beans. Expect nothing like that. Once again, I can't repeat enough, we eat with our eyes. I want folks to experience our brunch for the first time and have it taste like they're on the beach."

The rebrand is just part of the evolution of the Barbed Wire Restaurant Group; in May, it debuted Wild Taco at 215 East Seventh Avenue.

In addition, Aragon and his fiancée, Barbed Wire Reef co-owner Carolina Ortega, were invited to attend a reception on behalf of Vice President Kamala Harris in honor of Hispanic National Heritage Month, held at Harris's residence in October. Aragon and Ortega were also asked to be part of an intimate roundtable discussion with Harris and six other businesses. "We were honored to have been selected and participate in such an intimate setting with the VP. It was very inspiring as Hispanic business owners," notes Aragon.

Barbed Wire Reef GourMexican is located at 4499 West 38th Avenue and is open from 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 3 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For more information, visit barbedwirereef.com.