Bistro Barbes Cooks Up Some Fine Fusion

Summer-pea agnolotti: That's just one of the dishes full of big flavors coming out of the kitchen at Bistro Barbes, the tiny restaurant that chef-owner Jon Robbins opened this past spring. Six pillows of fresh pasta arrived bathed in sauce the color of early-morning sunshine, described on the menu as...

By Gretchen Kurtz

September 4, 2014

[
        {
          "name": "Air - MediumRectangle - Inline Content - Mobile Display Size",
          "component": "12017618",
          "insertPoint": "2",
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "2"
        },{
          "name": "Editor Picks",
          "component": "17242653",
          "insertPoint": "4",
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "1"
        },{
          "name": "Inline Links",
          "component": "18838239",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 8,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "7",
          "maxInsertions": 25
        },{
          "name": "Air - MediumRectangle - Combo - Inline Content",
          "component": "17261320",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 8,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "7",
          "maxInsertions": 25
        },{
          "name": "Inline Links",
          "component": "18838239",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 12,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "11",
          "maxInsertions": 25
        },{
          "name": "Air - Leaderboard Tower - Combo - Inline Content",
          "component": "17261321",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 12,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "11",
          "maxInsertions": 25
        }
      ]

Summer-pea agnolotti: That's just one of the dishes full of big flavors coming out of the kitchen at Bistro Barbes, the tiny restaurant that chef-owner Jon Robbins opened this past spring. Six pillows of fresh pasta arrived bathed in sauce the color of early-morning sunshine, described on the menu as tarragon-carrot beurre blanc, but far more subtle than it sounded. Once you hear Robbins's nickname, you understand what made that sauce so special. "People spread around restaurants that were concentrated on the Seventh Avenue corner for a while all know me as 'Beurre Blanc,'" says Robbins, who made his share of the rich emulsion at Mizuna, where he spent five years, most recently as chef de cuisine. "I'll answer to it without any hesitation, and if someone yells 'Beurre Blanc' from across the street, I'll look up." And you'll want to look up his new place after reading Gretchen Kurtz's review of Bistro Barbes, now posted on Cafe Society.

KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. Your membership allows us to continue offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food, and culture with no paywalls. You can support us by joining as a member for as little as $1.

Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.

Contact: Gretchen Kurtz

Follow:

Twitter: @denvrcriticeats

Instagram: @denvercritic_eats