Baird notes that the Broker Inn restaurant was once a community staple, priding itself on being the largest shrimp purveyor west of the Mississippi. But as time passed, business dwindled, and it officially closed in 2014, remaining dormant until new ownership took over in 2021. With considerable planning in collaboration with Greg Topel and Aubrey Clark of EVG Hospitality, the executive team has spent months making thoughtful changes that respect the integrity of the building while revitalizing the space for modern consumers.
The room that long ago featured an indoor pool has been made into a game room, decked out with a pool table, table tennis, lounge seating and more. There's a main dining hall, a full bar and private dining rooms available for special events, as well.
The restaurant name is quite a head-scratcher — at least until you learn that plans are underway to renovate the hotel’s outdoor pool to accommodate a poolside tiki bar, DJ booth, cabana-style seating, greenery and a second-floor deck for six to eight tables. That project is expected to debut in May, just in time for guests to soak up the summer rays.
The size and scope of the 10,000-square-foot space is what drew Baird to the project; she came on board last October after working at Call Your Mother in Denver and Atomic Cowboy. “Multi-unit multifaceted operations are kind of what sets my heart on fire,” says Baird, who delights at the challenge to lead.
Baird’s most enjoyable experience thus far was hiring Quijano, a Mexican American chef hailing from Mexico City, who has cooked at Ginger and Baker in Fort Collins and the now-closed TAG Restaurant in Larimer Square.
Quijano shares that his culinary journey comes with its share of ups and downs. After more than twenty years in the industry, the pandemic shutdown forced him to take a break. He did a stint as a substitute teacher, and when businesses started to come back, Quijano opened up a Mexican food truck, Santa Elena's. Following a short-lived expansion into a brewery, Quijano was eager for a new direction to supplement his food truck work, which led him to helm the kitchen at Boulder Swim Club.
The ownership team tasked Quijano with developing an Asian fusion menu that fits with the tropical sensibilities of the tiki bar. “This was an ability to look at an open canvas, explore and deep-dive into something new," he says. While he admits that the term "fusion" can be cringey, "I geek out with the history of ingredients. I'm not super focused on fusion or not fusion. ... I want to be able to provide an exceptional meal that is exciting, that is new, that is going to reinvigorate this space."
The ahi tuna wonton with black vinegar, avocado-lime aioli and herb salad is a customer favorite
Chris Marhevka
The smoked-pork barbecue meatball sliders are seasoned with scallions and fish sauce, lightly smoked in-house, then tossed in a pineapple-habanero sauce to evoke the perfect mix of tropical flavors as a tribute to one of the owners' upbringing in Hawaii.
Other favorites include Thai chicken wings, dipping noodles, hanger steak and sweet treats like freshly baked ginger-molasses madeleines. “We’re just beginning to scratch the surface,” Quijano says of his ongoing recipe development.
Both Baird and Quijano are excited to engage the local community in this historic setting. The game room is the perfect meeting place for college students and young professionals looking for a post-work hangout or weekly trivia nights. The beautiful bar has ample seating to enjoy happy hour specials and tropical libations. The restaurant’s newest feature is that the main dining hall operates as a library cafe by day, with local roaster Ampersand coffee and pastry selections by Spruce Confections. The team welcomes newcomers and longtime locals alike to marvel at the makeover, or simply come by for a good time.
Boulder Swim Club is located at 555 30th Street in Boulder and is open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday and 8 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. For more information, visit boulderswimclub.com or follow it on Instagram @boulderswimclub.
