Welcome to the Wash Park Grille, where brunch is bottomless and the buffet tables stretch on seemingly forever. The Grille's brunch buffet comprises more than just the standard eggs and bacon, though; you'll find a carving station, pizza, seafood, build-your-own omelets and a chocolate fountain. Eggs and bacon are available, of course, along with a few other brunch staples for those with simple needs.
If you choose an orderly path to eat your way along, the first brunch station holds breakfast staples: cheesy scrambled eggs, a heaping pile of bacon, chicken-apple sausage and home fries. This is the most kid-friendly table, but it's also a good first layer for adults planning to pile their plates. Right next to it is a Belgian waffle station that churns out mini-waffles with strawberries and whipped cream for toppings. Then there's a doughnut machine frying up fluffy goodness rolled in cinnamon sugar.
As any good buffet fan knows, meats are where you make your money back, and prime rib is a great place to start. The carving station boasts moderately rare prime rib and honey baked ham to serve as the protein foundation for your plate.
Next stop is the omelet station, where you can choose up to three fillings on a slip of paper, which a server takes so you don't have to stand in line and wait. If you're not quick about loading up at other stations, you’ll have your omelet before you even get back to your table. Fillings include cheddar cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes, red peppers, onions, ham, spinach, bacon and sausage.
Specialty brunch items are next, with orders of individual huevos rancheros and personal-sized eggs Benedicts. The huevos rancheros are built on a single tortilla chip, with beans, eggs and cheese on top, while the Benedict is assembled in similar fashion on an English muffin half. But next to those, and overpowering nearly everything else in its allure, is the lobster macaroni and cheese. Generous chunks of lobster and pasta swim in cheesy liquid gold.
Brunch pizzas vary, but on this visit included the Pompodoro, with smoked pepperoni, and a grilled-artichoke pie with oven-roasted tomatoes, arugula and, of course, artichokes, with a balsamic drizzle. The pizzas are handmade with naturally leavened Antico Molino Caputo flour, which is used in most Neapolitan-style pizzas. The thin crust is crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside without being chewy.
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The salad bar has many options to upgrade your greens, the fruit platter is expansive, and a cheese board offers several tempting selections, so you can choose mixed nuts and grapes, for example, to supplement your cheese. Keep moving to find a bagel station with lox, capers and cream cheese, plus a bountiful pile of shrimp on ice just waiting to become the vehicle for your vat of cocktail sauce. And if you want a posh upgrade to your brunch, a pound of crab legs can be added on for $10.
Last but never least is dessert. The tray of pound cakes, coconut macaroons and other pastries would be plenty, but front-of-house manager Katie Main didn’t think that was enough, so she added a chocolate fountain. Skewers are available to make kebabs of marshmallows, strawberries, banana, pound cake and doughnuts. Smoothies can also be made to order, with your choice of strawberries, bananas and pineapple with cranberry or orange juice. But if you want something a bit stronger, bottomless mimosas are $9 and Bloody Marys — with what amounts to a small charcuterie board atop — are $7 (you can get an unadorned Bloody for $4). Beyond those, a short list of brunch cocktails and standard mixed drinks are always available.
The restaurant offers a small brunch menu if you choose not to go the buffet route, but the all-you-can-eat special is a great deal, at $25.50 for adults and $12.95 for kids over five (kids under five eat free). "It’s nice because there's something for everyone,” Main says of the deal. “Even after fifteen years of brunch, we still add in new dishes and stations every year.”
Wash Park Grille is located at 1096 South Gaylord Street and serves brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. every Sunday. For details, call 303-777-0707 or visit the restaurant's website. Hot tip: Brunch fills up quickly, so reservations are encouraged.