Cafe Society

Frank Bonanno's ten favorite things at the ten Bonanno Concept eateries

Gretchen Kurtz just reviewed Vesper Lounge, the concept that Bonanno Concepts opened last November, when a space right between the flagship Mizuna and Bones opened up. With the addition of Bonanno Brothers Pizzeria this spring, Bonanno Concepts now has an even ten eateries (with an eleventh coming next spring -- more on that later). For a moment, we had the bright idea of attempting to rank those spots. But then we thought again, and asked chef/entrepreneur Frank Bonanno to share his favorite things about all ten pf concepts. His list, in the order of each restaurant's opening, follows. See also:When Bonanno Concepts took over Lancer Lounge, it created a real tot spot Mizuna 225 East Seventh Avenue "From the sidewalk outside of Mizuna," Bonanno says, "the bread station is gently illuminated, and as you walk through the doors you're greeted by warm boules of bâtard and Kalamata bread. Zack nursed the starter -- her name is Chelsea -- from the yeasty remains of an enormous Denver apple crop couple years back. We've been baking bread at Mizuna since we opened in 2001, and to me, the bread station is the physical embodiment of a dedication to beautiful food. It starts here, with the bread, which arrives at every table with house-churned, salted butter as warm and generous (corny as it sounds) as the spirit of the cooks who work the line." Luca d'Italia 711 Grant Street "For my father-in-law's last birthday, I sent him a package with fresh mascarpone, a half a white truffle and all the makings of our signature fussili pasta. Although the signature Wild Mushroom Fussili dish is one of my favorite dishes, period, it's not even close to the best pasta on the Luca menu. Every day Jed rolls fresh ribbons of pappardelle, curls fresh ziti, stuffs agnolotti. Stocks simmer all night for the rich accoutrements that make our pastas, and, yes, definitely the pasta at Luca is my favorite thing there." Osteria Marco 1453 Larimer Street "I'm proud of how dynamic Osteria Marco is -- that there's a panini station in the middle of the dining room, pizzas in the kitchen, a fresh cheese station at the top of a high stack of stairs. In fact, I'll stop there, at the top of the stairs. At the Osteria (like at Mizuna), you're greeted by food -- burrata, in this case. It's so popular right now, but good dishes surpass popularity and trends. Burrata is one of the few cheeses that should be made fresh and served immediately, the way we do it at the Osteria. Warm, salty -- satisfying. I can't walk by that station without grabbing a fresh piece for myself."
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