Nicki, who grew up in Spring, Texas, had originally planned to open Hank's last summer, but ran into permitting and construction delays that pushed the opening out an additional six months. But the result is a complete conversion of Solera's fine-dining kitchen and dining room into a counter-service barbecue joint with a more open floor plan and a meat counter where customers can see their selections being sliced from whole briskets, racks of ribs and other smoked meats (and vegetables) pulled from a smoker on the back patio.

Hank's Texas Barbecue owner Christopher Nicki slices brisket for friends and family before the restaurant's official opening.
Mark Antonation
Sides hew close to tradition as well, with creamy mac and cheese (made with rotini instead of elbow noodles), baked beans, tangy stewed collard greens, coleslaw, potato salad and green beans coated in spicy chile oil. Smoked pickles are a curious surprise on the roster. A full bar pours Lone Star and Shiner in bottles, a small selection of beers and ciders in cans, and a short roster of Willie Nelson-themed cocktails.
Hank's, named after Nicki's low-and-slow dachshund, held a friends-and-family day on Saturday, February 2, when friends, neighbors, displaced Texans and even Goose Sorensen himself showed up to sample the barbecue. Sorensen says he wouldn't be surprised if Nicki will soon have to add another smoker on the patio to keep up with demand.
Beginning this week, Hank's Texas Barbecue will be open from 11 a.m. until the food runs out every Wednesday through Sunday. The restaurant joins AJ's Pit Bar-B-Q (a recent arrival from Chicago) as one of Denver's newest Texas-themed joints; if you're planning a brisket pilgrimage to taste the finest offerings from Texas transplants, don't miss TRU Colotexmex Bar-B-Que & Catering (599 West Littleton Boulevard, Littleton) and Wayne's Smoke Shack (406 Center Drive, Superior).