Taste Test: Does This Mushroom Root Alternative Meat Taste Like Chicken?

Impossible and Beyond burger patties have long dominated the alternative-meats market on restaurant menus. But now there's another contender from a Colorado company: Meati Foods, which was founded in 2017.

Last year, it launched in Sprouts and Whole Foods — and at all of the locations of local chicken sandwich chain Birdcall.

On October 16, Birdcall is offering guests the chance to try its current Meati sandwich, which comes with a crispy Meati cutlet, kimchi slaw with cilantro, and sriracha aioli (which contains egg, making the item not vegan-friendly) for just $1.

Last year, when Meati first launched at Birdcall, I headed to the location at 1535 East Evans Avenue to compare the animal-free option to the regular chicken sandwich. Here are the results of that taste test:
The experience: "Can I get two original sandwiches, but one with a Meati patty," I said at the drive through, immediately realizing how weird (and potentially confusing) that sounded. And indeed, confusion ensued.

While the Meati patty can be subbed on any sandwich at Birdcall, there is also a sandwich called Meati on the menu — at the time, it was made with Asian slaw, sweet chili vinaigrette, sriracha aioli and crispy wonton strips. As I pulled away from the menu board, I realized (too late) that the employee had rung me up for one of those (priced at $9.95) instead of the original ($6.95) with an Eat Meati cutlet subbed for the chicken (a $2 up-charge).

When I got to the window, I tried to clarify, only causing more confusion. Ultimately, I ended up with two original sandwiches, both with chicken, and one Meati sandwich...also made with chicken.

Mission incomplete.

Instead of returning to the drive-thru, I decided to place an online order for curbside pickup, which proved to be far simpler and guaranteed that my order was correct — although no one ever did come out to deliver it to my car. After following the text prompt to reply with my curbside parking space number and waiting for almost ten minutes, I found my (correctly made) sandwich in a cubby inside with no staff in sight.

click to enlarge

Meati is made from mushroom root.

Molly Martin

How it tastes: Ordering snafus aside, the real meat of the matter is how Meati tastes. Upon first glance, I wasn't too hopeful. The manufactured shape and pale color of the crispy coating didn't have the eye appeal of the golden fried chicken next to it.

When I sliced the sandwich in half, though, I was surprised by how much it did indeed resemble chicken — at least the kind of processed chicken used in those cling-wrapped chicken sandwiches they seemed to serve at every high school in the early 2000s.

The first thing I noticed after I bit into the Eat Meati patty was how juicy it was — even juicier than the actual chicken. It was also well-seasoned, though it could have been a bit crispier. Overall, though, both the flavor and the texture were pretty enjoyable. I was impressed — and pleasantly surprised. In fact, if someone handed me that sandwich and told me it was one of those school-lunch chicken patties, I wouldn't question it.

The verdict: Meati, or at least its crispy cutlet, is an impressive meat alternative. It was satisfying and flavorful, and the company's ability to grow mushroom root naturally and efficiently only adds to its appeal. According to its website, Meati can grow the mushroom root equivalent of the meat of one steer in three days. In January, it expanded its production capabilities at its new "Mega Ranch" in Thornton.

If you're vegetarian or vegan — or just looking to eat more plant-based foods — give Meati's products a try — especially if you can catch today's $1 deal.