Review: Lower48 Kitchen raises the bar in Denver

Lower48 Kitchen 2020 Lawrence Street, Unit A 303-942-0262

My first thought when I saw the opening section of the menu at Lower48 Kitchen was, "I want one of each." So it's no wonder that the column of small bites, with temptations such as a beignet filled with whipped tarragon and a potato omelet with ham and smoked mayonnaise, is headed "each." My second thought -- which speaks to my years as a journalist in the digital age -- was, "Oh, I see: He's charging for content that used to be given for free," since it seemed like chef/co-owner Alex Figura was charging for amuse-bouches, those fancy tidbits traditionally sent out as a gift from the kitchen.

See also: Behind the Scenes at Lower48 Kitchen

But that was in the restaurant's early days, when night fell in late afternoon and crocuses were snuggled deep in their beds. It was also before the narrow white platter of the most delicious appetizers I've had in a long while was set before me, appetizers each well worth two bucks...and more.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz