Thai Monkey Club stays away from the sugar, but does it have enough spice?

On my last few trips to Portland, I've eaten at Thai joints ranging from holes-in-the-wall to empires (hello, Pok Pok), looking for yam makheua yao or a bowl of spicy jin hoom. I seek out these places to remind myself that not all Thai food is cooked as it so often is here in Denver, i.e. overloaded with sugar.

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Fortunately, I can now get my Thai fix closer to home.

Earlier this year, an outpost of Thai Monkey Club opened near me, and while the cooks don't abstain from sugar (as one sip of the Thai iced tea will show), they don't dump so much sweetener into the sauces and curries that you wonder if you're eating dinner or dessert.

Find out if co-owner Sirishom Hakamjarn's approach to the rest of the menu is as savvy as her treatment of sugar when my review of Thai Monkey Club is posted here tomorrow.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz

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