Annoying because it's easy to make assumptions about a place like Yardbird. "Oh, it's a chain, right?" one of my friends commented when I was recapping the meal. Technically, yes, and RiNo is now full of corporate concepts. The neighborhood that was once home to mom-and-pops and special, locally owned spots such as the Populist, which closed in 2019, now houses chain outposts like Yardbird's neighbor, Puttshack; fast-food giant Shake Shack; Barcelona, which has locations in twenty states; and Federales, which is backed by Chicago-based real estate developers and mostly relies on its "throw your shot glass made of ice at a bell" shtick to draw in guests.
Despite the changes, RiNo remains one of the best areas in town for eating and drinking; some of my favorites are Fish N Beer, Hop Alley, Embassy Tavern, Meadowlark and Owlbear. More and more, though, the new additions seem to double down on RiNo's growing reputation as an area that's all about Instagram aesthetic instead of substance.
But not all chains are created equal.
Yardbird, for example, has impressive culinary roots. After appearing as a finalist on Top Chef, Jeff McInnis partnered with restaurateurs John Kunkel and Chris Romero to open the original restaurant in Miami in 2011, and it was nominated for a James Beard Award and named one of Bon Appétit's Best New Restaurants in 2012. Since then, it's expanded to eight locations total, including Las Vegas, Singapore and Denver, its biggest outpost yet.
And while Yardbird is backed by what's now a major hospitality group, 50 Eggs, its staff is mainly made up of locals, including chef Brent Turnipseede, previously of Guard and Grace, American Elm and Sapore Prime Italian. The menu has many Yardbird staples, but also a lineup of Denver-specific options.
I realized that I had to dump my assumptions as soon as I walked inside Yardbird. I opted to sit at the marble-topped bar instead of the large dining room with a view of the open kitchen, though both areas had high energy that matched the staff's enthusiasm. From the start, I got stellar service from a team that genuinely seemed to be having fun, too.
The place is big, for sure, but it's smartly broken up into several areas, including a large outdoor space out back that will host live music and other events next summer, a private event space downstairs that will double as a second, sort-of-hidden bar in the coming months, and a more intimate side patio with a view of the smoker — a piece of equipment unique to the Denver Yardbird that is used for items like St. Louis ribs and the brisket plate.
Every single item I tried delivered on both flavor and technique, from the Fried Green Tomato BLT appetizer (thick slices of crisp fried green tomatoes topped with super-tender house-smoked pork belly, pimento cheese and tomato jam, all of which are brightened up with lemon vinaigrette) to the 72-hour short rib, a Denver exclusive that is served sliced, medium-done and eats more like a fork-tender steak. It's paired with green chile grits, braised cippolini onions and chunks of summer squash that were tender but retained a nice bite.
Yardbird's famed fried chicken was spot-on, too. I opted for the half bird and tacked on a side of supremely creamy mac and cheese. But while I got a damn good meal, I also got sticker shock.
As someone who dines out multiple times a week, I know that prices are high at restaurants across the board, and I understand why. Throw in a massive new build and a large staff to handle the entire operation, and the prices at Yardbird make sense.
Still, spending $32 for that half bird (four pieces), $15 each for sides like mac and cheese or grilled asparagus, $18 for a green goddess salad, $16 for cornbread, and $16 and up for a drink (an Old Fashioned made with Don Julio 1942 runs $35) can be hard to swallow. There's even a $25 slice of Bourbon Bacon Chocolate Cake on the dessert menu. Granted, it's huge, oh-so-decadent and made by uber-talented, award-winning pastry chef Jessica Scott, but...
Pastry chef Jessica Scott's desserts, like the made-in-house fried "Oreos," are stellar.
Molly Martin
Don't go there expecting homestyle comfort food at a comforting cost. Instead, if you're up for a splurge, skip the fried chicken and consider the short ribs.
For a fried-chicken fix, here are three other spots to consider:
- For an upscale experience, head to Stone Cellar Bistro in Arvada for its Wildfire Fried Chicken, which is fried in duck fat and dusted with Cajun seasoning and a drizzle of hot honey (three pieces for $16).
- For a family-friendly, crowd-pleasing vibe, opt for the Post, where the fried chicken also happens to be gluten-free (half bird for $19.95).
- For a low-key soul-food spot that does homestyle Southern fried chicken right, Blazing Chicken Shack II cannot be beat (half chicken with two sides for $16).
