Ty Lam had frequented the small Yoisho Japanese Restaurant for over a decade, eating her way through the Japanese menu that's dotted with Korean influence while getting to know the elderly couple that ran the place. And recently, she asked the owner, Kim Soon, if she could buy the space when Kim and her husband decided to retire. The couple said yes -- that they were ready -- and Lam took the reins.

Lam assumed control two weeks ago as the couple eased into retirement. But since she was originally charmed by the yaki-soba, yakiniku and bulgogi served in the tiny, sparse dining room manned by a small staff, she won't be making any changes to the eatery or menu.

"Everything's going to stay the same," says her daughter. "That's why she bought it; she didn't want anything to change."

• Word of Mouth