Yucatecan Cuisine Is Getting Harder to Find in Denver

Gretchen Kurtz reviewed Mayan Manjar Yucateco a year ago, finding plenty of big flavors in the tiny Mexican eatery devoted to the cuisine of the Yucatan. While tacos, tamales and burritos were all part of the menu, specialties like juicy, slow-roasted cochinita pibil and dark relleno negro tipped diners off...

By Mark Antonation

August 26, 2015

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Gretchen Kurtz reviewed Mayan Manjar Yucateco a year ago, finding plenty of big flavors in the tiny Mexican eatery devoted to the cuisine of the Yucatan. While tacos, tamales and burritos were all part of the menu, specialties like juicy, slow-roasted cochinita pibil and dark relleno negro tipped diners off that this was far from typical Den-Mex. But now the search is on again for a new place to snack on panuchos and salbutes; Mayan Manjar Yucateco is closed and has been replaced with a burrito joint.

The only other sure bet in town for Yucatecan cuisine was Los Tres Reyes in Littleton, but that place also closed earlier this year. Good cochinita pibil can still be found at various taquerias and restaurants in the city, including La Calle on West Alameda Avenue, Work & Class in RiNo and El Trompito (with locations on the north and south ends of town). Uptown newcomer Dos Santos Taqueria offers a few flavors (and possibly occasional off-menu specials) of the Yucatan courtesy of chef-owner Kris Wallenta, who also operates two restaurants in Cozumel. The diversity of Mexico's cuisine goes well beyond the tacos a la plancha so common in Denver; it's a shame to lose the distinctive regional cuisine that made Mayan Manjar such a rare treasure.

Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.

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