It’s been nearly a decade since chef Tommy Lee made a splash in RiNo with the opening of Hop Alley, but dining here still feels as fresh and fun as it did when the place was a buzzy new addition. Some things have stayed the same: The bone marrow fried rice and la ji zi loaded with mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns and chiles are still favorites, and the hip-hop playlist makes for a high-energy ambience. But Lee has made some smart changes, too, including an expansion that added more space for regular service and private events plus — the best part — a chef’s counter that serves a completely separate menu, allowing the staff to flex its creativity in new ways.