Best New Chef’s Counter
Mezcaleria Alma
Towering back bar shelves loaded with over a hundred mezcal bottles are flanked by a stainless-steel refrigerator displaying a few hulking fish hung by their tail fins for all to see as they dry-age. Leather-bound upholstery and raw wood accents fill out the decor at Mezcaleria Alma, the latest concept from chef Johnny Curiel and wife Kasie, who earned a Michelin star for their first eatery next door, Alma Fonda Fina. The space is rustic and chic, ancestral and modern – the visual equivalent of the menu, which draws on the boundless breadth of Mexico City and the bounty of the sea. Here, Johnny’s grand vision of sharing Mexico’s beauty through its food comes to life by bringing the cuisine into a quaint LoHi space, funneling it into a tight twelve-item menu and serving it to you directly over the chef’s counter. Great things do indeed come in small packages.