Pulling Up Steaks

It’s 4:42 p.m. on a Friday when I get in line at the Trail Dust Steak House, which opens for dinner at 5 p.m. every night. Since I last ate there (“Cattle Call,” February 4, 1999), the restaurant was ravaged by fire and then rebuilt; when it finally reopened this…

The Bite

Heart of the matter: Valentine’s Day is a cheesy way to get attention from someone who should be giving it to you anyway. But if you’re hell-bent on observing this Hallmark holiday, try an alternative to the usual dinner-and-roses format. For example, you can go cheesy at The Truffle (2906…

Check, Please!

Q:I need a place in the downtown area where I can send a group of reasonably well-mannered high school seniors for dessert after the big Snowball dance. Any ideas? A:Groups of high school seniors are usually as welcome as rats at upscale restaurants; still, I can recommend a few places…

Look Out Below!

If there’s a time and a place for everything, 3rd Ave. Eclectic Burgers and Cuisine is halfway there. The time is certainly right for restaurants: People are eating out more than ever – not just at trendy spots, but at comfortable, casual eateries where you can have a fast dinner…

The Bite

Toque of the town: Sean Kelly needs a break. And so one of the town’s top restaurateurs is calling it quits — for now. “I’ve been struggling with this decision for a while,” he says. “I hated to do this to my people. I hate to do it to the…

Cuba Libre

Joe Schneider had already graduated from culinary school and spent time in professional kitchens when the Caribbean cookbooks started calling to him. They told of a complex and infinitely variable cuisine that incorporated the native fruits and vegetables of the Caribbean islands (Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Trinidad, Puerto Rico,…

Check, Please!

Q:I just came back from a tour of South America, and I wonder if Denver has places that serve things like feijoada, from Brazil, or Peruvian dishes? A:That fare has been slow to catch on here, and the town’s oldest South American restaurant is still your best bet. Café Brazil…

So Pho, So Good

Since the word “pho” can mean “your own bowl” in Vietnamese, you’d think that a restaurant named Pho 79 was prepared to bowl you over with 79 different soup possibilities. In fact, Pho 79 misses by about fifty — but what it does offer is more than enough for me…

The Bite

It may seem as though having a burrito shop on every corner means that Denver has finally arrived as a culinary mecca, but the truth is — and I know this is going to scare some of you, so brace yourselves — there are other foods out there. Enough fruits…

Brunch Bunch

The early bird gets the Sunday brunch at The Tuscany. The all-you-can-eat gourmet smorgasbord at the Loews-Giorgio Hotel is so popular that you sometimes must book a late meal in order to get in. That means 1 p.m. or so, and by that time, hungry diners have been at the…

Check, Please!

Q:Where can I get good chicken and dumplings? A:Good question! After contacting fifteen likely candidates, the closest I could come to finding chicken and dumplings was the Rocky Mountain Diner (800 18th Street, 303-293-8383), where an employee told me: “I’ve been here for two years, and in that time, we…

Reality Bites

I think I’m gonna hurl,” the teen announced to anyone within earshot. His girlfriend, the one with the blank stare and bare midriff who’d been holding his hand so tightly it looked like she might be hurled into space if she let go, didn’t even blink. “Ohhhh,” he moaned, holding…

Bowled Over

The diner sitting on my left has stomach cancer and isn’t sure what treatment he’s going to try. The diner sitting on my right has a seventeen-year-old daughter who’s pregnant. Fifteen minutes into a beef curry bowl at Kokoro, and already I know more about these two than I do…

The Bite

Let the games begin: While Holoworld (see review) caters to families with its volcano and retro-future thing, Dave & Buster’s (1940 South Colorado and 10667 Westminster Boulevard in Broomfield) has more of a gentleman’s-club-wannabe feel, with wood-and-chrome-lined rooms filled with pool tables, video games and virtual-reality simulators. And while people…

Check, Please!

Q:My girlfriend wants to eat crab legs on her birthday. If you have a restaurant recommendation, I would certainly appreciate it. A:Hands down, the best crab legs I’ve found in town are at Hemingway’s Key West Grille (1052 South Gaylord Street, 303-722-7456), a nautically themed eatery with a good-natured, noisy…

Grunge for the Border

You can’t judge a cook by its cover — particularly not when you’re dealing with Mexican restaurants. Some of the best I’ve eaten in looked the worst: dark and dirty, with busted windows or no windows, hand-painted signs or signs about to fall off, cigarette butts scattered all over the…

The Bite

Extra! Extra! Read All About It: One order, three plates. As the server set each one down on the table, she kept eyeballing me for a reaction. And she got it. “Okay, that’s a heck of a lot of food,” I said, and she chuckled. “I was wondering if you…

Check, Please!

Q: I am very disappointed that Canino’s Trattoria closed its doors, because I really enjoyed the wild-mushroom ravioli in a tomato-cream sherry sauce. I am an Italian-American who grew up on good homemade Northern Italian food and am weary of the “Italian” restaurants around here. Can you suggest a restaurant…

A Rose Is a Rose Is a Rose?

Eating at the new Rose’s Cafe is a little like sitting in your grandmother’s rocking chair after she’s passed away: It’s still shaped like her, it still smells like her and feels like her, and you can’t quite avoid the uncomfortable sense that it still very much belongs to her…

Higher and Higher

The server didn’t bat an eye when a member of our party asked for a Bud Light. The sommelier did. “Hey, maybe you have some in your car,” he joked, poking our server in the ribs. The server thought for a moment, then shook his head. “I think we do…

The Bite

Pierre Wolfe, who opened The Normandy in its original location in 1958 with his cousin, Heinz Gerstle, and shuttered its last home earlier this year (the spot is now occupied by Rose’s Cafe, reviewed above), isn’t exactly sitting around playing bridge now that he’s retired. Anyone who’s ever spent ten…

Check, Please!

Q:Do you know of any places in Denver that serve dim sum? A:Loosely translated, the Cantonese term “dim sum” means “dot hearts” or “little heart warmers.” These heartwarming tidbits were created around 960 A.D., when tea houses became all the rage during the Sung Dynasty. Today, the tasty snacks are…