Dream On

A hungry visitor from another city — hell, a hungry visitor from another planet — dropping into Denver would recognize in a heartbeat that we’re a little short on exciting cuisine right now. The few interesting restaurants we have are often doing exactly what the other interesting restaurants are doing…

The Bite

‘Tis the season for change, and sure enough, last week came the sad news that we’ll soon lose The Biscuit (719 East 17th Street), my pick for Best New Restaurant of 2000 (a choice that drew a lot of flak because the eatery didn’t have a full kitchen) and certainly…

A Prize Inside

In Breakfast at Tiffany’s, the characters played by Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard stop by the venerable jewelry store to ask if a ring from a Cracker Jack box can be engraved as a gift from him to her. The stately, stuffy gentleman behind the counter looks the ring over…

The Bite

“I hope you and your family die of food poisoning this Christmas,” the caller said. “Then you’ll know what it’s like to die slowly and painfully like a lobster.” It’s a little hard to take seriously the rantings and ravings I’ve received via voice mail and e-mail regarding my recent…

Tea Time

Robin Haig and I are sitting in Boulder’s Dushanbe Teahouse, eyeing a large triangular slab of pastry. It’s been identified by our waitress as a scone. We break off pieces and nibble. They’re very sweet. We try the scone with a bit of the teahouse’s lemon curd — not bad…

Check, Please!

Q: I would like to know of any good Polish restaurants around Denver. A: If you’re willing to take a drive, Villa Tatra in Pinewood Springs (between Lyons and Estes Park on Highway 36, 303-823-6819) is the most authentic Polish restaurant in the state. A Polish architect designed the building,…

Let’s Get Real

Dressed in a too-tight denim mini-skirt with nothing on her legs but little white bobby socks, the waitress bounded over to a nearby booth to make her announcement. “The nice lady who was sitting over there says Grandma bought your breakfast,” she proclaimed with a big grin on her face,…

Rocky Mountain High

The more downtown changes, the more the Rocky Mountain Diner remains the same. The Diner marks its tenth anniversary this month, so it can rightfully claim that it hit downtown long before the boom did. Office workers whose employers fled their 17th Street digs years ago, because of high rents…

The Bite

If McCoys Restaurant stood alongside Route 66, its French toast would no doubt have been included in The Route 66 Cookbook: Comfort Food From the Mother Road Deluxe 75th Anniversary Edition, by Marian Clark (Council Oak, $24.95). This ode to the legendary 2,400-mile highway is packed with photos, recipes (mac…

The Spain Course

James Mazzio is racing toward chef stardom with dizzying speed. He had presided for less than a year over his first kitchen — Boulder’s Fifteen Degrees — when Food and Wine magazine named him one of the ten best young chefs of 1999. His subsequent appearance on the Food Network…

Check, Please!

Q:You said Morton’s of Chicago has great steaks, but not the greatest steaks you’ve tasted. What do you consider Denver’s best steakhouse? A:Denver’s first Morton’s, which moved from the Tivoli to 1710 Wynkoop Street in 1995, was my favorite steakhouse for many years. Although the staff was often snooty, especially…

The Whole Truth

A forty-something woman was staring at a case full of frozen seafood, muttering aloud to herself. “Oh, my God, those are gyoza!” she finally exclaimed and then turned around, wildly searching for her shopping companion. “Did you see these?” she asked, dragging him over to the display and nearly shoving…

Like Manna From Heaven

Between nine straight hours of slogging through the outlet stores and several more writing Christmas cards, the holidays always cry out for us to find time to get away from it all and pamper ourselves. For that, I turn to the Old Stone Church in Castle Rock. Still looking like…

Totally Sconed

Instead of shelling out the big bucks for scones at Whole Foods Market (see review), check out the ones at Full Measures Bakery, 1730 East 17th Avenue. Owner John Stamper — with a little help from friends Michael Clark and Karen Leufvenius — makes ’em fresh every morning, right there…

Check, Please!

Q:I’m planning a wedding reception for next year, and I’m looking for a good but not overly expensive caterer. I have heard that Bistro Boys and Lifestyles catering are both good, but I would like to know your professional opinion. A:It’s much harder to review caterers than restaurants because I…

Ahoy, Denver!

Ever since Molly Brown returned to Denver after her dunk in the Atlantic, diners here have complained about this city’s lack of decent seafood restaurants. For a long time, the blame lay with Denver’s landlocked location — but that obstacle was removed a generation ago, with the advent of improved…

Market Value

A few doors down from Del Mar Crab House (see review this issue), folks at The Market (1145 Larimer Street) are mourning the sudden loss of Gary Greenberg, who ran the LoDo institution with his brother, Mark Greenberg, and died two weeks ago from brain cancer at age 52. Mark…

Harvest Home

The last Boulder County Farmers’ Market of the year takes place on a bright fall Saturday that has somehow slipped its way into a damp, murky week. At this late date, the market, recently named one of the best in the West by a national magazine, is a shadow of…

Check, Please!

Q:I went to Caldonia’s recently just for their fried chicken, and they’ve quit serving it. Any other suggestions? A:This past June, Caldonia’s (2252 South Parker Road in Aurora, 303-752-3829) won our Best Fried Chicken award; unfortunately, the popular sports bar didn’t sell enough of the town’s best fried chicken, so…

The American Way

It’s not as American as apple pie, but barbecue is firmly entrenched in this country’s culinary heritage. Although some food historians suggest that “barbecue” was derived from the French barbe à queue, which means “beard to tail,” the majority of reference works agree that it really came from the Haitian…

The Bite

There are those barbecue fans who claim you can get the same flavor with an electric smoker that you can by burning charcoal (and most of the fans who claim this are purveyors of electric smokers). I disagree, as do many barbecue purists, including the owners of Smacks Cafe (see…

No Mickey Mouse Deal

The Rockybilt hamburger, a humble object of desire that sent three generations of Denverites into swoons of praise, has long since gone the way of cocktails at the Shirley-Savoy, the Broncos’ vertically striped socks and convenient Stapleton Airport. The last Rockybilt System shack closed its doors circa 1980, having fallen…