Waiting Room

No restaurant is happy about no-shows, but the smaller the place, the harder it’s hit when people make reservations and then fail to cancel them — much less show up. The Beehive avoids this problem altogether by taking reservations only for groups of five or more. “We stopped taking reservations…

A Zero’s Welcome

After over twenty years in business, the Zang Brewing Co. just won the location, location, location lottery. The original Zang Brewing Co. belonged to Bavarian immigrant and would-be miner Philip Zang, who bought the failing Rocky Mountain Brewery after he failed to strike it rich in the gold fields. He…

Kitchen Magician

There aren’t very many chefs who can take the night off and leave their restaurant in the hands of their employees — at least, not without worrying that the next morning, the kitchen will look like a food warehouse exploded and the answering machine will be filled with forty messages…

Pub Grub

Okay, there are two kinds of bar diners in the world: those who would rather eat and drink at Zang Brewing Co. (see review above), with its downscale, inexpensive food and harried, overcrowded setting, and those who prefer places like The Pub at Nordstrom, which serves upscale Continental fare in…

The Sons Also Rise

Like father, like sons. Although the Armatas boys tried career paths other than the one pursued by their dad and his dad, they knew it was futile. “We figured that sooner or later, we’d be in the restaurant business,” says Alex Armatas, the middle brother. “We all tried to do…

What’s Old Is New

Turns out you can teach an old dog new tricks. But first you need to tame the beast with a new chef, a new location and even a new, improved name, like that of Basil Ristorante, now occupying the former home of the Parlour, at 846 Broadway. I first visited…

Old-fashioned Goodness

Denver has several diner-style eateries at which the triumvirate of Mexican, American and breakfast foods reigns supreme. For starters, there’s the other Armatas joint, Newbarry’s, at 2995 West Jewell Avenue, where from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, diners can scarf down some of the same foods found at Sam’s…

Get Lost

If I’d had a video camera, I could have filmed The Kitchen Bitch Project, and believe me, it would have been much scarier than that other movie. But there’s no footage to document the horror of my three meals at Lamonica’s Steak and Chop House. No, just several friends who…

A Rare Bird

For half a century, the immigrant working men of Louisville hacked out a living in the Acme Mine below the dirt streets of their town, swinging pickaxes, inhaling coal dust in the gloom and praying for Sunday. On Sunday the miners would go to church and, if times were good,…

Phone Lines

Phone lines: My mention of cell-phone abuse in my review of Tres Margaritas (“Wasting Away in Margaritaville,” August 19) prompted many responses, including several vehement voice-mail messages and e-mails defending people’s inherent right to annoy the crap out of others. The issue is gaining momentum nationally, too: Local reporter Brad…

Wok, Don’t Run

The mystery of Asian food is that it looks so easy to make. What’s so tough about throwing cut-up vegetables, bits of meat and a few spices into a big, overheated vessel and cooking everything until it’s edible? But appearances can be deceiving, as recent meals at two newer Asian…

Thai, Thai Again

It was broke, so they fixed it. If more restaurants were willing to change what doesn’t work, fewer would find themselves throwing in the kitchen towel. Case in point: Busara, the upscale Thai eatery at 1435 Market Street, has gone from barely making it to standing room only in the…

When Bad Things Happen to Good Restaurants

At the beginning of this year, Jit Nabangchang, chef/owner of J’s Noodles, at 945 South Federal Boulevard, was in a terrible car accident that left her in a wheelchair and on respiratory support for life. She hasn’t been back in J’s kitchen since, and her staff, most of whom have…

A Brush With Greatness

It was like an episode of This Old House: The Restaurant Version. When brothers Bill and Steve Rohs decided to open an eatery in a building across from Benedict Fountain Park on 20th Avenue, they first had to undo the damage done by the space’s previous restaurant tenant. “We knew…

Back on the Chain Gang

Bad guys can be rehabilitated. When I first visited Alcatraz Brewing Co. in what was then known as the Park Meadows “retail resort” (“Behind Bars,” September 9, 1997), the food and service screwups were almost criminal. The prison-themed eatery, which is owned by the same company as the California Cafe…

Recipe for Success

Recipe for success: And I thought no one was paying attention. So many readers have called to ask what happened to the recipes that I’m putting them back in — although they won’t run every week. Instead, you’ll find a recipe in Mouthing Off whenever I find a particularly good,…

Wasting Away in Margaritaville

The waiter stood there expectantly, his pen hovering over the order pad as he waited for the woman to tell him what she wanted for dinner. All of a sudden, a noise that sounded like victory music from a kids’ video game rang through the dining room, and the woman…

The Real Caribou Club

That’s right: You’re being watched. No sooner do you lift a hot wing or dripping chili-cheese fry to your hungry maw than you feel the hot gaze on your neck. The huge caribou head that dominates the dining room and bar at the Lakewood Grill has got its eye on…

No Bravo

No bravo: The idiots were out in full force during a recent stop at Rio Bravo Cantina, one of the many new restaurants that surround the Mann Chinese Theatre at Arapahoe Crossings. This is the first Rio Bravo west of the Mississippi — the chain originated in the late Seventies…

Mouthing Off

Wine and dine: If an event like the International Pinot Noir Conference makes it sound as though these things are getting a little too specialized, well, it could be worse. At least I didn’t have to go to the International Pickle Fest in Atkins, Arkansas, last month. Instead, I found…

The Real Relleno

The smiling man in the photograph on the wall at the Brewery Bar II is one George Goldberg, and the reason he’s smiling is that on January 7, 1994, he ate thirteen bowls of the local green chile for lunch. That amounts to five quarts of this time-honored saloon’s fiery,…

For Pete’s Sake

When Pete Petrides Jr. was growing up, Denver’s dining scene was better than television. “I would go over to my dad’s restaurant and just sit and watch people, listen to their stories,” Petrides says. “This was back in the Sixties, and Colfax Avenue was a different sort of entertaining.” At…