I am spoiled. Most culinary adventurers would be happy to find one Peruvian restaurant in a town this size, but Denver has several, with more coming all the time. Early this year, Cebiche opened in the space once occupied by El Chalan, a Peruvian restaurant that pioneered this neighborhood more…
A few months ago, the awkwardly named Centro Latin Kitchen & Refreshment Palace rose up, phoenix-like, from the ashes of La Rhumba — Dave Query’s failed attempt at Caribbean-Asian fusion, a place I loathed with a fine, hot passion — and further fortified the multi-unit owner’s entrenchment on this hard-fought…
I’d like to offer both a stern warning for those who might be headed out to Centro Latin Kitchen & Refreshment Palace (see review) and a helpful bit of advice for those who refuse to heed it: At Centro, the bar mixes a caipirihna that could strip paint. The bartenders…
It’s almost 9 p.m. when I hear Jesse call my battle name, Drewstroyer, from across the room. Immediately feeling sick to my stomach with first-time anxiety, I set down my second can of Olympia and wade through the crowd of fifty or so competitors and spectators. As I take a…
While many people remember their first kiss, I remember the first bar where I ever ordered a beer. Back when I was far too young to drink — legally — my high school gang would spend hours on the Emerald Isle patio overlooking the Cherry Creek Reservoir, our bodies slathered…
Just two months after I gave Aqua a thorough literary ass-kicking, it already deserves a second shot. Chef Duy Pham (late of Kyoto and, years back, Jay Chadron’s other restaurant, Opal) recently signed on to take the reins at this eatery that, several revisions ago, was based on his concept…
Like beer, like ice cream, like truffles, the pig is proof on the hoof — evidence that the food gods love us and want us to be happy. And the masa cake on the menu at Centro is proof (to me, anyway) that not only is Dave Query in league…
My cell phone rang around one in the morning. For most people, this would be a harbinger of bad news — kid in jail, someone in the hospital. For me, it almost always means work: a debriefing, a confession, an eleventh-hour emergency like a restaurant on fire or, worse, dead…
One of the defining characteristics of a meal at Sushi Den (1487 South Pearl Street) has always been the wait. A half hour, an hour. On busy nights, the wait for dinner can take longer than the dinner itself. I’ve been forced to sit on my hands for as long…
“Is this the shithole?” our cabbie — whose name I won’t use because I’m pretty sure he’s driving without the proper licensing — asks as we pull into the parking lot of Music Bar (4586 Tennyson Street). We’re packed four deep in the back seat (with another one in front),…
Every time I walk into Sputnik, I’m reminded of one of my favorite jokes. “Hey, have you heard that joke about hipsters?” “No, what is it?” “Well, of course, you haven’t heard it!” It’s beyond cliche to say that Sputnik is ground zero for hipsters. I’m surprised that instead of…
I was out at Park Meadows, and I was hungry. Absolutely unwilling to eat anything from the food court (and already suffering from my mistake in ordering a grainy, chalky cafe au lait and a cookie that tasted like chocolate-covered balsa wood from the little cafe attached to Nordstrom), I…
My cell phone rang around one in the morning. For most people, this would be a harbinger of bad news — kid in jail, someone in the hospital. For me, it almost always means work: a debriefing, confession, eleventh-hour emergency like a restaurant on fire or, worse, dead cold on…
I don’t think that Kelly Clarkson can be considered hard rock. Neither can Sugar Ray vintage 1998 when Mark McGrath got down on his knees to deepthroat VH1. But that’s just my opinion. Obviously it should be left up to the experts, and when the Hard Rock Café decides to…
I love the Brown Palace. I’ve never spent a night there, never seen the inside of one of the rooms, never even gotten off the ground floor, but something about the place just moves me. Which is odd, because normally I don’t care a whit for architecture, have no particular…
Ask me how I ended up at the Brown Palace four times in the past two weeks. Go ahead. Ask me. The answer? Because I am one lucky sonofabitch, that’s how. Because somehow, out of the tattered, twitchy, gin-soaked, uneducated, ass-backward mess I made out of my so-called career over…
“Black eyes don’t count,” Mike tells me from three stools over — by which he means, “Black eyes aren’t a big deal.” But from where I’m sitting, the golf-ball-sized swelling surrounding his bloodshot eyes and extending well onto his cheekbones sure looks like a big deal. Combined with his lacerated…
I would have liked living in the 1930s. Big bands headed by Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway, Benny Goodman, Glenn Miller, Tommy Dorsey and Count Basie were in their heyday, playing at famous clubs like the Savoy and the Cotton Club. And it was the golden age of luxurious ocean liners:…
Everyone should have a restaurant that is saved for special occasions — not for birthdays or anniversaries or celebrations of life’s small victories, but for dinners that are themselves the occasion. For me, the Palace Arms is that place, a restaurant that always makes a meal worth remembering. When I…
The Brown Palace comes close to what I’ve occasionally imagined heaven might look like: big and wide open, with a huge stained-glass skylight capping some distant ceiling, a well-connected concierge standing by, several restaurants to choose from and a nearby bar that not only stocks a fine collection of bottled…
To get a good meal in Northfield, first find yourself a child. If you’ve got a rug monkey of your own, fantastic. If not, acquire one. Far be it from me to suggest something as gauche as kidnapping, but the little creatures are often running rampant through the carefully designed…
There was a time when I would have raged and mounted the barricades to do battle with any chain restaurant. Back when I was younger, dumber and somewhat more deluded than I am now, I made no distinction between behemoths like Applebee’s and the Olive Garden (true villains) and operations…
