First Look: Mother Other Is a Standout Restaurant That Just Happens to Be Vegan

After years of dreaming and wholehearted dedication, founders Alexi Mandolini and Taylor Herbert have finally debuted their new brick-and-mortar restaurant, Mother Other. The intimate dining room at 675 S. Broadway has been bustling since its June 27 launch, affirming that there is, indeed, a demand for vegan dining in Denver.

With limited options available and eagerness to experience one of the season’s most anticipated openings, I opted for an early 4:45 p.m. reservation this past Thursday. Parking in the Denver Design District is plentiful though inside, the 55-seat space was already beginning to fill up. 

Herbert warmly greeted us at the door and, perhaps knowing we’d be ordering a fair share of the menu, ushered us to a spacious four-top next to a large window facing the patio, which can accommodate another sixteen guests. Umbrellas offer shade though with the heat wave, nearly all of the evening’s visitors opted to sit indoors. 

The intimate dining room was undeniably charming and filled with plenty of natural light. Four faux leather stools lined the snug bar. Its plum-colored base beautifully complemented the decorative sage panels, which wrap around the dining room.

Live plants and an expansive gallery wall brought extra pops of color. Several pieces were sourced from local queer artists, a conscious choice by Mandolini and Herbert, who are fellow members of the LGBTQ+ community. Other frames held recipe cards, each handwritten by mothers, grandmothers and others cherished by staff members.

“It’s a way to honor the hospitality that we learned from those women,” says Mandolini. Those important individuals taught the team well, as the service we received was exceptional. 

It likely helps that Mandolini and Herbert have thoughtfully instilled a four-day work week, as well as a staff-wide tip pool program. This means that a busy night benefits not only front-of-house, but the kitchen team as well. “Everybody’s working collaboratively and I feel like the guest is getting a better experience this way,” comments Herbert. 

Throughout the entire experience, our server was attentive and engaging in genuine conversation. We never felt rushed, though I was astounded by the speed of service. Drinks and plates arrived just minutes after ordering. Good thing, because the menu had my mouth watering.

What we ate and drank at Mother Other

Vegan restaurants often get a bad rep for leaning too heavily on mock meats and cheeses, and some spots frankly skew a bit pretentious. But having co-founded The Easy Vegan in 2020, a pop-up concept that won The Great Food Truck Race, chef Mandolini has spent years perfecting her recipes and techniques. 

Put any preconceptions about vegan food aside, as the dishes at Mother Other are the clear opposite of bland, overprocessed or unsatisfying; and while some appear more sophisticated than home cooking, everything I ate was pure comfort. Impressively, the menu leans entirely on whole foods, much of which is sourced from Switch Gears Farm and other local producers. 

Particularly surprising was the generous portion sizes. Each plate is intended to be enjoyed family-style and easily, three selections could appease the appetites of two diners. My partner and I challenged ourselves to four (plus dessert); and while we left a little too full, we had no regrets indulging in these menu items.

Giarancini ($16): Drawing inspiration from her Chicago upbringing and Italian roots, Mandolini has crafted this phenomenal starter that was my favorite bite of the evening. Her vegan take on arancini featured creamy risotto coated in crunchy panko crumbs and a gravy-like celery root purée that made the dish. Tangy pickled veg added a balanced brightness. 

Japanese Sweet Potato ($19): Mandolini developed a version of this dish years ago, but it was always tough to execute from The Easy Vegan’s farmers market booth. Diners will see why, as the plate arrived piled high. Part-baked and part-whipped with black garlic and miso, the sweet potato had a delicious chestnut flavor. Sesame chili oil provided a subtle heat, while truffled taro chips and tempura-fried onion rings offered a great contrast in texture.

Potato and Chive Pierogi ($22): Many may recognize this staple from The Easy Vegan, which pays homage to the chef’s Polish heritage. Without the need to transport them, these crisp-chewy pierogi were served fresh (rather than cooked from frozen) and served alongside coconut sour cream, ruby kraut, caramelized onions and braised apple. 

Garden Grits ($21): Herbert says that grits remind her of what her mom used to cook back home in North Carolina, hence their inclusion on the menu. This dish appeared on a shallow plate and at first didn’t seem as smooth as a traditional Southern version. But after spooning up a bite, discovered a creamy texture that paired well with the rotating selection of roasted veg. 

Brioche Doughnut ($12): Save room for dessert, especially this one: a trio of brioche yeast doughnuts, something you seldom see from vegan chefs. These soft, sugar-dusted pillows were complemented by vanilla crème anglaise topped with torn basil and an irresistible poached rhubarb sauce.

The menu also included fluffy Parker House rolls ($10), something I very much enjoyed when first experiencing Mother Other as a supper club concept, a charred cabbage dish featuring tomato broth and braised gigante beans ($18), rigatoni alla vodka ($24) and several other shareable dishes. 

While it’s easy to be immediately drawn to the food, don’t overlook the beverage program which was informed by Herbert’s background in bar management. Natural wines, a tight selection of craft beer and signature cocktails make up the selection. The It Must Be That Simple was a not-too-spirit-forward whiskey drink perfect for summer, with peach notes and a citrusy finish. The hot mustard simple syrup was a creative addition that added a bit of zing.

I opted not to indulge in alcohol that evening and at Mother Other, that’s not a problem. Definitely order the Farmer’s Market Lemonade, a vibrant refreshment infused with basil, strawberries and red bell pepper juice. This can also be spiked with vodka, should you prefer.  The Soyboy Punch is another convertible cocktail, available with or without rum. But really, the star is the base: a clarified strawberry soy milk featuring lime, vanilla and spices. The concoction takes Herbert three days to make, and its natural sweetness is superb.

Would we revisit Mother Other?

This might have been the best vegan meal I’ve ever had in Denver. How Mandolini and the kitchen team balance creativity and comfort using only whole, plant-based food is remarkably impressive. The restaurant is only a couple of weeks old, but there’s this sense of familiarity and memories in the making. Three different groups seated around me were celebrating birthdays. Herbert greeted several guests like old friends, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they were. 

After years of pop-ups all around town, the duo have built a loyal following — one that is likely to grow in this new, permanent space. 

Mother Other is located at 675 S. Broadway, Suite 300 in the Denver Design District and is open from 4 to 10 p.m. every Thursday through Sunday. Reservations and more information are available on its website, motherother.com.