Launched by veteran Denver barmen Adam Hodak and Alex Lerman in early 2021 after many pandemic-related delays, the L is a straightforward, low-key place to get a damn good drink. There’s no food on site (though there’s plenty to be found nearby), and the cocktail list is smartly succinct — but every single option is a winner, from the mezcal-spiked Old Fashioned to the throwback espresso martini and the brightly hued, rum-based Whirly Dirly.