Chez Thuy's menu is a history lesson told in food, the room a casually shabby clearinghouse of a thousand spices, the board reflecting a mingling of the French and Vietnamese obsessions with dining. It's a family place, friendly and welcoming to regulars and newcomers alike, with enough variety — pho, stir fries, curries, grilled meats and everything in between — to keep people coming back for years.
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Recounting the history behind Chez Thuy's exquisite cuisine (see page 61), I was reminded of this episode: During the siege of the French at Dien Bien Phu by the Viet Minh, one of the last cargo drops recorded before the base was ov...
One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the country, Dac Hoa, is in Rochester, New York. It's a small, Barton Fink-ish place, with a perpetual pall of dishwater gray light, rickety tables and peeling everything in a borderline-cre...
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