Eeny Meeny Sushi Roll

Denver doesn’t do weird — at least not when it comes to restaurants (Casa Bonita is the exception that proves the rule). So fans of offbeat dining should head to this Lakewood sushi bar, which is a wonderland of weird decor: miniature fairy gardens populated with tiny cartoon animals; plush, smiling nigiri; colorful balloons randomly placed as if left over from a child’s birthday party; and a fisherman’s net filled with what appear to be discarded iPods or cell-phone covers. There's a dazzling list of sushi rolls — familiar varieties like spicy tuna and California — and more creative offerings such as the Colorado cowboy or cowgirl, both of which include snow crab and torched filet mignon; the first also boasts asparagus and five-spice seasoning, while the second pairs the surf-and-turf combo with avocado and spicy mayo.