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Mark Antonation

Latigo

Mark Antonation
Latigo is the latest eatery from chef Ignacio Leon, who also operates three outposts of the well-loved Los Carboncitos with his brothers Cesar and Roberto. An alumnus of the Instituto Culinario Mexicano in Mexico City, Leon peppers Latigo's menu with regional Mexican dishes that can be hard to find elsewhere in town: there's cochinita pibil from the Yucatán; pescado a la Veracruzana (fish cooked with olives, capers and tomatoes); and our favorite, Oaxacan-style clayudas (or tlayudas) — charred corn tortillas the size of your head layered with black beans, mild, creamy white cheese, avocado and grilled skirt steak. If you can't get to Oaxaca for your tlayuda fix, Latigo is the next best thing.

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