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New Peach Garden

The traditional Chinese menu isn't exactly hidden at New Peach Garden; the dinner menu touts such family-style dishes as cumin lamb, tomato with egg, and something called "homeland tastes" — a combination of sautéed eggplant, potato and green pepper. The undisputed king of this collection, though, is the unceremoniously named pork sandwich — really rou jia mo, one of Chinese cooking's simplest and tastiest treats. New Peach Garden slits open firm, oven-baked flatbread and stuffs it with stewed pork chopped with green chiles, which impart a zip of racy heat. Savory pork drippings soften the flatbread as you proceed, though never enough to make the sandwich soggy, so you get a bit of crunch with every mouthful of unctuous pig. Since there's so much to sample on this menu, we recommend you order this handheld wonder as an appetizer. But don't offer to share it: Since it's so precariously packaged, you're liable to lose a lot of the filling (and thus the balanced magic of each bite) if you attempt to cut it in half.

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