Danielle Lirette

North County

North County is far from the region of coastal California that inspired its name, but don’t tell that to the hordes of hungry people flocking to Lowry for fish tacos, boozy house-bottled sodas and margaritas. The beer-battered swai is a crowd favorite, with honey-lime slaw and a scratch flour tortilla. Other hits are the house taco, dubbed “Da Baby,” made with pineapple-basted pork, charred pineapple and salsa verde, and the chicken tinga, with a flavorful, stew-like filling. However, given North County’s strong lineup of shareable appetizers, such as housemade chips and guacamole, carne asada fries and pork green chile, you might not make it to the tacos at all.

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