Ocean Prime

Ocean Prime has sailed into the last major space in Larimer Square, and things are going swimmingly for this "modern supper club," the latest from Cameron Mitchell, an Ohio restaurateur who launched the progenitor of Ocean Prime in Columbus in 2006. The concept may come from the Midwest, but it fits right into Denver, with a stunning entry, a big downstairs bar area that seats 100, an elegant upstairs dining area and bar, elegant appointments, comfortable booths, and the best private dining space in town, with a table for eight and a great view of the corner of 15th and Larimer streets (the windows actually open). Not surprisingly, the board is a combination of prime-grade steaks and seafood, but you'll also find pork chops and chicken, a raw bar, soups, salads and sides -- including seven manifestations of potatoes -- appetizers like white truffle-caviar deviled eggs and Sonoma goat-cheese ravioli with Golden Oak mushrooms, and enough sweet finales to shake up Willy Wonka.