We've found some very good vegan pizzas in town, including this year's Best of Denver award-winner. But the pie to beat in 2013 comes from the oven at the Marquis Theater, which has minimal seating for diners -- but plenty of entertainment while you wait.
Most of the people heading into the pizzeria's entrance, right next door to the main door for the theater, were looking for a giant slice or two -- but we were going for the whole thing. Once we'd ordered two massive pizzas from the lone pizza-related employee -- who was cook, cashier and entertainment in one -- we had a half-hour to kill. Which is easy when you're sitting in a front-row seat to the pedal-powered party buses full of laughing, drinking groups out for Saturday-night shenanigans and drunken pizza-munchers trying to start shit with various passersby and loiterers.
Once the pizza arrived, though, there was no reason to pay attention to anything else. Pictured above is the Sticks & Weeds, a specialty pie that comes with mushroom, onion, green pepper, spinach, tomato, fresh garlic and vegan cheese; we also ordered it with Denver Seitan Company wheat-meat, which we highly recommend. The bottom of the crust was crispy and brown, all of the toppings fresh and ample. It was, as the website advertises, a slice of heaven.
The Don't Call Me Whitey specialty pizza featured garlic and olive oil in lieu of tomato sauce, plus parmesan, fresh basil, mozzarella and crushed red pepper; we'd ordered it topped with Denver Seitan Company seitan. Those beautiful golden-brown bubbles should speak for themselves, but in case they don't: If you like white pizza, you've come to the right place.
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Marquis Pizza is open from 5 p.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday and 5 p.m. to 2:30 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. For more info, call 303-292-2829 or visit www.marquispizza.com.