Santa Baby…

Hey, big guy, I wanted to drop you a line and see how things are going up at the North Pole. How’s the wife? Reindeers healthy, I hope? Everything good with the elves? Okay. Enough about you. Let’s talk about me. I don’t mean to be a dick or anything,…

Pain Killer

Islamorada Fish Company 7970 East 49th Avenue 720-385-3600 Last weekend I really needed a change of scenery, but I got stuck working. So a friend and I headed to the Bass Pro Shop — which, while technically still in Denver, might as well be on the moon for most of…

Bar Louie

Thank God there are only a few more shopping days until Christmas; I’ve had it with staggering debt. But as long as the malls are going to ruin our credit ratings, they could at least provide a few amenities. For example, they need to do something for us dads waiting…

Churchill Bar

If you want a taste of the luxe life and can’t afford a meal at the Palace Arms, what do you do? You go to the Brown Palace’s Churchill Bar, where you can experience many of the amenities available next door, at a slightly more reasonable price. The menu offers…

A Call to Arms

Excess—that’s what I love about the Palace Arms. And not just plain excess. Not cheap, tawdry, modern excess but classy, well-aged and dignified excess. The kind of excess that almost demands you don an ascot and monocle before partaking. And yet, there is no credit check at the door, no…

Brasserie Ten Ten

Like any American chef (current or former), I’ve had a love/hate relationship with France for a long time. Before I knew enough to know better, I hated the country for producing some of the white-toqued, chain-smoking, red-faced bastards who trained me — guys who bigfooted their way through the kitchen,…

The Hard Truth

I’ve often been accused of having a bias toward certain foods. Barbecue, American diner classics, specific types of very cheap Mexican grub. I’ve been told that I have a weakness for any restaurant that attempts Irish cuisine or the native specialties of upstate New York. Even my own darling wife…

Snooze Julius

You’re getting sleepy. There’s nothing more disappointing than loving a restaurant but hating the service — as my recent visit to Snooze so sadly showed. I knew we’d have to wait for a table during Sunday’s prime brunch hours, especially after the eatery appeared on an episode of The Real…

El Toro Palomo

Stupid question, but have you ever just needed a drink? Not wanted one, or felt compelled to have one because it was Friday or Monday morning, or because someone exerted some major peer pressure by calling you a certain female gynecological body part. And not needed physically, either — to…

Bistro Vendome

Under the command of chef Eric Roeder, Bistro Vendome did some French dishes better than any other place in town: steak frites, sauces of all description. But brunch was always the best reason for visiting Vendome, and even though Roeder is gone and the restaurant is now firmly in the…

The French Disconnection

Like any American chef (current or former), I’ve had a love/hate relationship with France for a long time. Before I knew enough to know better, I hated the country for producing some of the white-toqued, chain-smoking, red-faced bastards who trained me — guys who bigfooted their way through the kitchen,…

Cowbobas

Only in Denver. Certain things — Crocs, Mayor John Hickenlooper, Elway’s steakhouse — could only come out of Colorado. Others, like 99-cent strip-mall sushi and Western states hockey, seem anachronistic, yet flourish here regardless. But I’ve been a lot of places and seen a lot of things. And while I’m…

Fuse This

Denver is full of seriously screw-loose culinary mash-ups. For a time, fusion cuisine was the only thing this area produced more than microbrews and ski injuries. Remember Vega? French/Latino fusion in the jewel-box style, fish napoleons, albondigas in swooping white china bowls, oxtail tamales: It was doomed from the start,…

Funky Monkey

Like the beer! When I lived in Manhattan, I had a friend named Michael Jackson. Whenever he introduced himself, people would ask: “Where’s your glove?” or “Where’s Bubbles the Chimp?” or “Can you moon-walk?” Local comedian/ sportswriter Sam Adams has taken advantage of his famous name (trust me, people aren’t…

Caldonia’s

I would like to present the latest Institute of Drinking Studies breakthrough in applied physics: the Bathroom Theory of Relativity. You’re engrossed in a discussion — say, about what to name your friend’s impending child — and finally must sprint to the bathroom because you’ve held and held so that…

Elway’s

Different kind of neighborhood, different kind of neighborhood restaurant. While Cowbobas (see review, page 55) is all about feeding the locals what they want, so is Elway’s. And chef Tyler Wiard and his crew have put together a new menu that speaks right to the primal needs of Cherry Creekers:…

Cowabobas, Dude!

Crocs, Mayor John Hickenlooper, Elway’s steakhouse — could only come out of Colorado. Others, like 99-cent strip-mall sushi and Western states hockey, seem anachronistic in this state, yet flourish here regardless. But I’ve been a lot of places and seen a lot of things. And while I’m thinking hard, I…

A Pizza the Action

Chefs and restaurant owners are competitive animals by nature and disposition. Not Iron Chef, cooking-contest competitive — not just lighted-stage, rule-book and panel-of-judges competitive — but seriously, almost compulsively, knock-down, drag-out Thunderdome bloodthirsty. In a successful restaurant, there’s no room for sentiment or surrender (except on the menu). And in…

Outta Here

It wasn’t the fastest closure on record (that would be Gavi, I think, which lasted less than a month in the space at 1110 Lincoln Street that’s now occupied by Andrew’s). But it sure seemed like it. Two weekends ago, the Lakewood location of Emogene Patisserie, the newest baby birthed…

LannieTini

When a drag queen starts talking about her inner bitch, you know it’s time for a cocktail. There are other good times for cocktails, of course, but it would be hard to top Tuesday night at Lannie’s Clocktower Cabaret, when the hilariously funny “Demented Divas” take the stage at the…

Brooklyn’s at the Pepsi Center

According to the Guy Code, it is not socially acceptable for two guys to split a burger or any other food item when out in a group. This rule is well defined; the only people allowed to share are girls, couples and men who are inclined to split a “salad.”…

The Oven Pizza E Vino

With a pizza from the Oven, certain bites will linger in the memory as among the best bites ever. Not every pizza, and not every bite. But once in a while, when the stars are aligned and the food gods are smiling, you take a bite from one of the…