Bite Me

Movies and food, food and movies. Would I have enjoyed Julia Blackbird’s New Mexican Cafe (see review, page 61) had it not been for the unfortunate mention of Like Water for Chocolate on the menu? Not likely. Still, there should be a rule in the restaurant business about not setting…

Drink of the Week

Jerry Seinfeld once imparted these words of wisdom: When you hit that high note, say goodnight and walk off. So for my final act as Drink of the Week girl, I gathered a group of faithful friends and headed to Moda Ristorante & Lounge for several rounds of Gocce di…

Drunk of the Week

After a year of our close collaboration, the Head of Research at the Institute of Drinking Studies finally shared this piece of information: The true Irish often frown upon the Black and Tan that I love so much. Historically, the drink’s components are Guinness and Bass ale, the latter an…

Lots of Luck

Back when I was hungry and vicious and always questing after dumb-luck fortune in the galleys and basement kitchens of this country, I could smell doom in a restaurant a mile away. It was a survival mechanism then, learned rather than instinctive, though no less hardwired into my autonomic switchboard…

Bite Me

The in-laws were in town again recently. It was just a quick visit, a few very busy days of catching up and shooting the breeze, punctuated (of course) by meals. Lots and lots of meals. That’s the thing about visiting me and Mrs. Critic — no matter who you are…

Consumed

Most people who wear cowboy hats in Colorado are, as one variation of the saying goes, “all hat and no cowboy.” But now these wannabes can put some beef under their brim and gain a certain cowpoke credibility, thanks to Hollingsworth Land and Cattle’s meat-buying program, which allows them to…

Drink of the Week

Summer nights seem so right for a little Latin lovin’. And since my blue-eyed, blond-haired boyfriend doesn’t exactly fill that bill, when I’m in the mood for Caribbean spice I hit the twinkling patio at Cuba Cuba for a Havana Special ($6.50). A recent addition to the exotic drink menu,…

Drunk of the Week

I’ve been in bars all over the world, and good bars are pretty much the same no matter where you find them. They’re all dark, smoky — as long as you’re not in the People’s Republic of Boulder — and serve greasy food. Everywhere I’ve gone, even Bahrain, a good…

Steaking a Claim

Here’s what Emil-Lene’s Sirloin House is missing: a really big steak. Not just a big steak — big steaks it’s got. There’s a 16-ounce sirloin on the board, a 10-ounce prime rib that’s cut so generously it takes up half a plate, even a 24- ounce T-bone that certainly far…

Bite Me

Forty-six years. That’s a good run — a historic run, even — for any restaurant. And that’s what Emil-Lene’s Sirloin House (see review,) has rung up since 1958, weathering every storm, every up-and-down surge of the economy, by following one credo: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. “You don’t…

Drink of the Week

With summer in full swing, I’m longing to spend every afternoon lying by a pool. But while I’d be nice and tan, I’d also be broke. So instead, I’ll be spending my evenings reclining on a black leather couch at the hot Swimclub 32 and sipping a Lychee Martini ($8)…

Drunk of the Week

Two weeks ago, the planets and several other heavenly bodies — as well as most of the cheesy guy population in the greater Denver area, four representatives from the Institute of Drinking Studies and several hundred dollars’ worth of alcohol — collided at Avalon (9535 Park Meadows Drive, Lone Tree,…

At Your Service

Outside the front doors of the Fresh Fish Company was a valet — a big fella, slouched in his chair at the curb, hands in the pockets of his windbreaker. He was staring out at a lot with room for about 10,000 cars, enough parking for the hundreds of people…

Bite Me

I have often made the smartass claim that brunch exists only as a convenient excuse for those who want to get drunk in public before noon. This conceit comes both from my own experience as that drunk in question, and from my time spent on the other side of the…

Drink of the Week

In nineteenth-century Ireland, priests, politicians and upstanding ladies who wanted to sneak a quick nip without tarnishing their reputations could enter their local pub through a separate entrance and settle into a snug — the original VIP room, an intimate, private space where bartenders would pass pints through a frosted…

Drunk of the Week

I just about walked out of Legend’s (201 Milwaukee, 303-320-4710) a few minutes after walking in. I’d never been inside this bar before, despite having walked past it numerous times while taking the Great Circle route back to my apartment after just the right number of Black and Tans at…

Come Monday

The phone rings once, three times, five, and then Charlie Master answers. “Brix. Happy Monday.” This would be an incredibly annoying way for anyone to answer the phone — shades of that “case of the Mondays” scene from Office Space — if Charlie didn’t sound so sincere. He really means…

Bite Me

A moment of silence, please, for Vega, the innovative (and really good) Nuevo Latino eatery run by Michael Payne and chef/partner Sean Yontz. After eighteen months, Vega served its final meal on Saturday, May 15, adding one more name to the long list of restaurants that have lived and died…

Drink of the Week

During a summer spent studying art history in Florence, I learned to enjoy the Italian lifestyle — long, languid evenings full of rich food, wonderful Chianti poured straight from huge glass jugs, lively conversation with new friends. If you’re seeking such an experience stateside, head straight for a lustful Passione…

Drunk of the Week

I’m beginning to wonder if it’s worth it to go on vacation. I just got back from a storybook week at an all-inclusive resort in Cancun with my girlfriend. For a week we did nothing (much) more than sit on the beach or poolside, enjoying adult beverages and eating amazing…

Get a ‘Cue

At the diners I frequent on deadline day, the waitresses know what I do for a living and don’t hold it against me. They see me hunched up in the corner going longhand through these discursions on food and love and triumph and disappointment, dog-earing menus, smoking too much and…

Bite Me

Having Racines close by was the best sort of convenience. And I mean the old Racines, the one at Ninth Avenue and Bannock Street on whose grave a retail/condo complex is being built. It was a neighborhood bar that always seemed to be part of the neighborhood no matter where…