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Mark Antonation

Centro Mexican Kitchen

Mark Antonation
Not only is Centro a beautiful restaurant, a casual restaurant and an undeniably cool restaurant with a bar that pours some stiff drinks, its food is good, smart, original and stubbornly uncompromising. It's nominally a Mexican restaurant, with a menu listing bocaditas of chips and salsas and rellenos; simple carne asada and enchiladas and carnitas are among the mains. But on almost every plate, something extra has been added, something that muddies the dish's origins; these innovations, taken altogether, make Centro's menu less Mexican comfort food and more a fusion of taquerias around the world.

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