It's not surprising that the sign over the South Federal Taco House, which is almost bigger than the building below it, is more of an icon in this town than the restaurant itself. Despite age spots, facelifts and weathering, the building maintains a roadhouse charm and tidiness that stand in opposition to the forces of decay. Owner Greg Risch’s grandfather-in-law opened this spot in 1958 (the family also owns the outpost on South Wadsworth), and the tacos have been a Denver favorite for decades; a smothered beef burrito and tender tamales offer the same vintage-Mex appeal. Or go for the #4 dinner – three cheese enchiladas, a bean chip, a queso chip and a guacamole chip, a Risch family favorite. And if you have room, the dessert apple enchilada, a relatively recent addition (sometime in the last thirty years) will satisfy your sweet tooth. Just don't forget the scoop of vanilla ice cream!
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As early as this week — and no later than mid-May — the Littleton Taco House will reopen after a year-long construction project that started with repairs to the roof, and grew from there. This Taco House, part of a local chain found...
In A Federal Case, I'll be eating my way up Federal Boulevard -- south to north -- within Denver city limits. I'll be skipping the national chains and per-scoop Chinese joints, but otherwise I'll report from every vinyl booth, walk-...
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