Fast Food

Good Times' new breakfast burritos -- lean and green

Good Times Burgers & Frozen Custard, a homegrown chain, is heating up this green chile season by rolling out a roster of chile-injected menu items: a green chile burger, a green chile chicken sandwich, green chile sliders and breakfast burritos, all smothered with New Mexico Hatch green chiles. The new breakfast burritos are being tested at the 32nd & Youngfield store in Wheat Ridge, and if customers warm to them, the folks at Good Times will put them in dozens of stores across Colorado later this fall.

Since Colorado's many chile-philes and breakfast burrito aficionados can be turbo-picky, I got down for a serious taste-test of each breakfast burrito -- bacon, sausage, chorizo and meatless -- when a Good Times rep delivered them, still hot and mouth-ready, to the Westword office.

I decided to try the bacon one first, because bacon trumps most other foods. The supple tortilla was neatly folded in at one end, with bits of diced chile, egg and potato peeping out of the other end. First bite produced fluffy scrambled eggs made with black pepper, tiny diced russet potatoes -- perfectly mealy, with the nutritious peels intact -- and tiny, tender nips of chewy bacon. I've eaten breakfast burritos that were so dry I needed to dip them in my morning coffee -- or afternoon beer -- to scrape them down my food-pipe, but this burrito was nicely moist, and the green chile sauce providing most of that moisture was a standout. The chiles were fruity and the resulting sauce chunky, with a slow but steady mild-to-medium warmth -- good for the median masses who aren't into serious heat.

Still, the burrito needed a touch more cheddar to help solidify the ingredients and give the mix a richer, fatty flavor. And, of course, it needed more bacon. There can never be too much bacon in a breakfast burrito.

Next up? The chorizo breakfast burrito. As I unwrapped it from its aluminum foil sleeping bag, I searched for the drips of fiery-orange grease that usually spit out the ends of chorizo-stuffed burritos. None. I found out why when I took a bite, and discovered that the chorizo was mildly seasoned and lean -- no cholesterol-clogging treat for me here.

I liked the sausage burrito the best out of the four, because the meaty little nuggets gave off a pleasant sage-y, black peppery, salty flavor, and overall the burrito was the most aggressively seasoned of the choices.

The meatless burrito was a tad thinner than the meated ones, and it definitely needed more shredded cheddar cheese to compensate.

But each burrito contained an above-adequate amount of really well-made scrambled eggs -- fusty, brown-speckled, overcooked eggs are the sworn enemy of all breakfast items -- as well as those good potatoes and an excellent green chile sauce, so they are definitely worth the $2 each they retail for at Good Times.

This year's green chile season will no doubt produce a festive array of chile-infused items in stores, shops and restaurants across the state, and this entry from Good Times is a respectable kick-off.

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Jenn Wohletz
Contact: Jenn Wohletz