Dish of the Week: High-End Hot Dogs at Goed Zuur

Baseball season is under way, so thoughts of beer and frankfurters will take up a not-so-small corner of our minds for the next few months, accompanied by the distinct sound of home-run balls cracking off bats at Coors Field. Let's be frank: We love a good hot dog, whether fished from a vat of murky water at a street-corner cart or just off the grill during a Rockies game. But sometimes we crave something a little special — when it comes to beer as well as wieners.

Not too far from Coors Field, in the heart of Five Points, Goed Zuur doesn't do ordinary, in either its lineup of nothing but sour, wild and funky beers from all over the world or its small but smart menu of meats, cheeses and other beer-friendly eats. Pull up a seat at the chef's counter and watch the meat slicer turn out curls of prosciutto, or belly up to the bar to get some expert advice from Goed Zuur's staff. Choose something bracing and bright to accompany the Denver dog, a hefty link made by Georgia's Spotted Trotter nestled in a housemade bun that's more like a baguette than a standard squishy hot-dog bun.

The dog is topped with a rich, creamy fondue and a zesty giardiniera. A side of the bar's duck-fat popcorn comes topped with cracked black pepper and a generous shower of shaved parmesan.

Two other hot-dog options are available, if this one doesn't quite do it for you. There's a charcuterie chili dog with cheddar and mustard and a kimchi dog with black garlic and cilantro — hardly ballpark fare, and there's not a drop of ketchup to be seen, thank God.

Tuck into a high-end hot dog and a Belgian-style beer at 2801 Welton Street Monday through Wednesday from 3 p.m. to midnight, Thursday and Friday from 3 p.m. to 1 a.m., Saturday from 1 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Sunday from 1 p.m. to midnight. Call 720-749-2709 or visit Goed Zuur's website for more details.