First Look: Cinq à Sept is a sensual affair

There is something distinctly sensual about Cinq à Sept, the latest creation from the celebrated Half Eaten Cookie Hospitality team behind Boulder’s Oak at Fourteenth, Corrida, C Bar, and C Burger.

The name itself carries a provocative connotation. Literally translated as “five to seven,” the French phrase historically referred to a window between work and dinner when lovers could steal away for a clandestine rendezvous.

Not to suggest that this Parisian-inspired bistro should be the destination for a secret liaison. But regardless of your intentions, dining at Cinq à Sept is an enticing experience.

A sexy space

The debonair dining room sets the stage for some seriously spectacular plates. And yes, the plateware itself is pretty—even before it serves as the canvas for pristine seafood, vibrant vegetables, and artful interpretations of French classics. Everything just looks so damn good.

Located at 4580 Broadway in the space formerly occupied by Bellota, it’s no surprise that this North Boulder darling has already become a neighborhood favorite thanks to the partnership between restaurateur Bryan Dayton and chef Samuel McCandless, who have produced some of Boulder’s most beloved restaurants.

“French food started it all for me. A simple bistro has always been a dream for us, and we desired it in the community,” says McCandless.

This particular space manages to feel both intimate and open — a quality reflected not only in its physical layout but also in the sense of approachability it inspires. Think elevated farmhouse with rustic charm and chic accents, all set against a striking cobalt-blue backdrop. The sexiest part? Everything is under $30.

In this economy? A revelation.

Shared plates

First of all, if you have yet to embrace gluten with open arms, this is the place to do it. The 5/7 Baguette is a star of simplicity. It’s hard to beat freshly baked bread, especially when served with French butter ($8) or Brebirousse d’Argental Brie ($12). Pair this delightful loaf with thinly sliced Bayonne ham ($11) that practically melts in your mouth.

The coastal fare at Cinq à Sept deserves special recognition. A half-dozen Pink Moon Oysters ($27), followed by the Niçoise-inspired Tuna Crudo ($22) featuring tomato water, caperberry, olive, egg, potato, and green bean — a personal favorite — prove the point. The Poached Shrimp and Endive ($19), accented with serrano chile, orange, and sunflower, delivers another perfect bite.

Everything is designed to be shared, Plats Principaux included. The Roast Half Chicken ($29) is perfectly prepared and presented in its natural jus with herbs. And the Petrale Sole à la Meunière ($25), is an irresistible French classic enriched with brown butter, caper, and shallot.

McCandless manages to turn vegetables into something magical. The Mokum Carrots ($16), accompanied by fromage blanc, Espelette, pepita, and mint, and the Poached Zucchini ($13), with hazelnut, gribiche, and chervil, feels more like main players than supporting acts.

The rich chocolate mousse and crème brûlée conclude the meal with style.

A French margarita?

The cocktail menu is predictably excellent. After all, Dayton has been creating outstanding bar programs for decades. (See also: C Bar.)

It comes as only a little surprise, then, that your new favorite margarita in Boulder is served at a French restaurant. The Margarita Le Marais ($15), that is, with Reposado, Gran Marnier, and Creme de Cassis. For those inclined toward something decidedly more Parisian, there’s the French 75 ($14), a refreshing classic with gin, lemon juice, and turbinado sugar.

A thoughtful selection of French wine, beer, and nonalcoholic options ensures there’s a little something for everyone.

“We talked about opening a French bistro a couple of years ago,” says Dayton. “Samuel had spent the early part of his career working in a French bistro and also worked at L2O in Chicago for Laurent Gras. That really sparked the conversation. French cooking has always piqued my interest through my travels in Paris and throughout France, and it’s really the baseline for modern culinary technique. We also saw a need in the community for a fun, light bistro like this — somewhere serving unfussy food with great wine and drinks.”

Despite the scandalous suggestion of a discreet dalliance between five and seven, Cinq à Sept is, ultimately, a delightful gathering place for friends, lovers, and everyone in between to linger over fabulous food and drink — perhaps well past seven.