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Jacques Is Now Serving Classic French Bistro Fare in LoHi

Now open in the former LoHi SteakBar space, the team includes chef Nicholas Dalton, who is one of the founding partners of Brasserie Brixton.
Image: a wooden table in front of a green booth
Jacques decor includes lots of greens, blues and gold. Shawn Campbell
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Over the past few years, French restaurants have made a big splash in the local dining scene â€” and another one just jumped into the pool. "We're trying to create something a little different," says Nicholas Dalton, partner and executive chef of Jacques, a French bistro that opened last week at 3200 Tejon Street, in the former LoHi SteakBar space.

"We all see French dining as this white-tablecloth, very special-occasion, high-end thing, and I think a lot of French restaurants meet that bill," he continues. "So we're trying to do something that's more approachable. ...Just creating a more inviting environment that's more comfortable — more like you're at home." If your home happened to be decked out with luxurious, deep-green booths, marble-topped tables and plenty of gold accents, that is.

The decor at Jacques feels special enough for a celebratory destination, but Dalton and his partners want it to be a place that draws in regulars and solo diners, too. "I'm always in the mind that you find a need in the neighborhood. We have a very high-end French restaurant in the neighborhood," he says, referring to nearby Noisette. While Jacques is also a place where people can go for a two-hour-long dinner, he adds, it's ideal for people who just want to "bop in for a drink and a snack," too.

Dalton has experience creating something unexpected. He's one of the co-founders of Brasserie Brixton, a decidedly un-stuffy French eatery that opened in the Cole neighborhood in 2020, serving playful fare infused with global flavors. At Jacques, the menu is "more traditional," he notes. "We're leaning into small plates here. That's for the neighborhood — for people wanting to able to have a snack and a cocktail, then go across the street and do the same thing."

That approach was something the team landed on after talking to other restaurant owners in the area, who "all agree that that's just the culture of the neighborhood." Options include escargot in puff pastry ($17), beef tartare with shaved fois gras and truffle mustard ($22), and steak frites ($28). There's also a selection of vegetarian small plates, like French onion soup ($14) and roast mushrooms ($16), plus a trio of potato options.
click to enlarge a long table with chairs
A private dining space that may double as a late-night bar includes murals by local artist Chris Haven.
Shawn Campbell
One crowd favorite from Jacques' first week in business comes from the shared mains portion of the menu: the chicken crown ($50). "We take the legs off of a chicken and roast it whole — super crispy skin, beurre blanc. It's a really beautiful, proper roast chicken," says Dalton.

"It's amazing," adds CFO William Steck, who is also the head coach of the University of Denver men's club hockey team and met Dalton and partner Simon Rochez when he was the maître d' at Le Bilboquet in Cherry Creek.

Rochez, who is originally from France, moved from New York City to Denver in 2019 to open that eatery. The three had casually talked about starting a restaurant together, but when the pandemic hit, they each focused on other ventures.

After spending some time traveling, Rochez returned to the Mile High, ready to open a restaurant of his own. "I  was very impressed by Nick opening Brasserie Brixton during COVID, so I was like, I want this guy with me," he says. "And William, as well — he knows a lot of people in Denver, and I wanted someone to help me out with that process of opening a business from the ground up. So that was the trio — the magical trio."

The three met up in June 2021 "and started mapping out what we wanted to do together," Steck recalls. "It's changed throughout that entire process of lending the concept to the space and to the neighborhood."

They signed a lease for the space with City Street investors last November and began working to transform it. "It was pretty dark in here before," Dalton says. "We brought some light into the space by opening it up."

"It's open, it's clean, it's inviting. And also cozy," Steck adds.

Rounding out the team is beverage director and partner Jerome Lavaissiere, who is also from France and worked in only Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe for fourteen years before moving to the U.S. eight years ago. "The wine list is over 90 percent French," he says, though guests will also find selections from Italian and American vineyards. Cocktails will be made with local spirits, when possible, but are all about channeling "French vibes," he adds, "and French names, like Moulin Rouge and J'adore from Dior."

In addition to the bar and lounge area in the front and a main dining room, there is a separate but connected back room with a totally different vibe, thanks to bright, street-art-style murals by local artist Chris Haven, including one that depicts Brigitte Bardot and the puffy Michelin Man mascot. It will be used as a private dining room, but may also double as a late-night bar in the future. "It's such a cool, fun space," Steck says.

"Fun" is a running theme at Jacques. Whether someone comes in for steak frites and a glass of wine, a pile of fries and a cocktail at the bar or a full-on feast with friends, "I just want people to have a good time," Rochez concludes. "If you see people smiling when they leave, you've done your job, right?"