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The Best Bites We Had in November

Tom kha wontons and duck rolls are among the highlights from our recent dining adventures.
Image: wontons in a white bowl
Tom kha chicken wontons from Yuan Wonton. Molly Martin

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It's been another delicious month of dining in Denver as we dug into some old favorites as well as several welcome additions. First up was a trip to Yuan's Wonton's brick-and-mortar at 2878 Fairfax Street in Park Hill, which debuted in September. It shares the space with Sweets and Sourdough, which is open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Sunday, and Thuy by PKR (Pho King Rapidos), which is open for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays and serves pho from 3 to 8 p.m. on Sundays.

Yuan Wonton's dinner menu is available from 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; it serves breakfast items on Fridays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Reservations are recommended, but walk-ins are also welcome. While all that may seem a little confusing, there's really no bad time to visit.

I snagged a reservation for a Wednesday night dinner and dug into nearly two-thirds of the items on offer (chef/owner Penelope Wong swaps in new dishes often). The OG chili wontons and the vegetarian Szechuan eggplant dumplings have been hits since Wong debuted her food truck in 2019, and they were as tasty as ever. But a new favorite emerged: The tom kha chicken wontons were a creamy treat with lots of bright lemongrass notes and heat from thin slices of bird's eye chiles.
click to enlarge food on a plate
Duck rolls at Hop Alley.
Molly Martin
The best way to experience Tommy Lee's Hop Alley at 3500 Larimer Street in RiNo is with a group that likes to share, which is exactly what I did this month. It was my first time dining there since Lee expanded the space earlier this year, and the additional seating only added to the energy. I tried the gai lan (grilled Chinese broccoli with schmaltz, oyster sauce and housemade duck salt), which proved a nice addition to the lineup of Hop Alley staples that includes bone marrow fried rice, chilled tofu and my current craving, the Beijing duck rolls.
click to enlarge red soup in a black bowl
Kimchi soon tofu from Tofu Story.
Molly Martin
Restaurateur J.W. Lee's Seoul Hospitality Group expanded in January with the opening of Tofu Story at 2060 South Havana Street in Aurora (next door to another one of the group's eateries, Seoul K-B.B.Q. & Hot Pot). The bright and busy Korean spot has its own tofu program, and the kimchi soon tofu was the perfect vehicle for the silky-soft tofu. With a flavorful, pork-studded broth available in three spice levels, it's also an ideal meal for a cold winter day.
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The Mississippi gyro from Bodega.
Molly Martin
Bodega chef/owner Cliff Blauvelt recently added several items to the menu at his trendy Sunnyside sandwich shop (2651 West 38th Avenue). Among the additions are a spicy fried chicken sandwich that packs a lot more heat than the previous chile crisp-topped version; a breakfast spin on a chopped cheese; and an amped-up version of a ham and cheese made with thick slices of "hammed pork belly" and fermented collard greens. My favorite, though, is a hearty spin on a gyro loaded with tender Mississippi pot roast, lettuce, red onion, beefy mayo and pepperoncini, which add the perfect balance of bright acidity.
click to enlarge a salad with a piece of salmon
The Jumper from Farm and Market.
Molly Martin
Farm and Market debuted at 2401 Larimer Street in September with a pretty ambitious business model. It's not only a fast-casual eatery, but also a neighborhood market that sells a variety of products, including the greens and herbs grown in an on-site vertical garden, which you can see through glass walls as you dine and shop.

The menu includes soups and salads, with the option to add grains to create a bowl. The Jumper is a combination of spicy micro mix, arugula, parsley, dill, grilled squash, zucchini, red onion, marinated sun-dried tomatoes and pickled mustard seeds with a Dijon vinaigrette. While you can add chicken, tofu or salmon to any salad on the menu, this one includes a tender salmon filet with crisp skin. It's a filling meal that left me energized instead of in need of a nap, and the fresh, ultra-flavorful greens play a starring role.