Usually when a new restaurant opens, there's a question of it living up to the hype — and the hype around Sap Sua was big; it even landed on Bon Appétit's radar. But this opening was different, because owners Ni and Anna Nguyen spent time developing their take on Vietnamese fare through the lens of Ni's experience as a first-generation Asian American and sharing it with guests long before the doors actually opened — first from a food cart in Longmont, and later in a series of pop-ups in the Denver area. Dishes like the now-staple charred cabbage anchored the opening menu, which has continued to evolve in exciting and delicious ways.