Antony Bruno
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Since it opened in 2019, Wellness Sushi has gained a loyal following among the Denver-area vegan community for its innovative and exclusively plant-based sushi menu. From vegetable maki rolls, rice bowls and ramen to vegan spam-based teriyaki “beef” onigiri, the restaurant’s dedication to vegan fare gained it recognition as one of Denver’s best vegan eateries.
And over the years, it grew thanks in part to the ongoing support of vegan diners. From its humble beginnings in a 166-square-foot pilot restaurant to its upgrade to the location at 2504 E. Colfax Ave., supporters followed its evolution from spot to spot.
Today, about a month after opening a second, non-vegan location in Boulder called Wellness Counter, the original Wellness Sushi is no more. Owners Steven Lee and wife Phoebe originally indicated in a July 4 Facebook post that the closure was temporary. But in response to multiple inquiries in response to that post as to when they plan to reopen, the team confirmed that Wellness Sushi is instead closed for good.
And with that, the support of the vegan community that Wellness Sushi has enjoyed for so many years has begun to fracture. Across social media, several former supporters have responded with anger and disappointment.
“Super disgusting that you mislead the vegan community to help you open this place only to close the vegan location,” says one. “I still have the email from when you were first looking to expand and you never mentioned that this place would be non-vegan.”
Abigail Bliss
Much of their, um, beef stems from the crowdfunding campaigns that Wellness Sushi’s founders conducted to help open their businesses in the first place. The original Wellness Sushi raised $60,000 to open. A subsequent campaign for Wellness Counter sought to raise $500,000, ultimately raising $235,740 as of this writing. In that campaign, the restaurant defines itself by saying “Our goal is to constantly create an accessible, robust, and delicious plant-forward menu.”
But Wellness Counter is decidedly non-vegan, with such menu items as chicken thigh, duck, wagyu, and lots and lots of fish. Of course, several vegan items from Wellness Sushi have carried over to the Wellness Counter menu as well — such as the roasted cauliflower and miso eggplant, with additional items promised — which the owners are promoting to vegan followers on social.
That’s not enough for some former customers, particularly those who say they contributed financially to the crowdfunding effort expecting their dollars would support their chosen cause.
“I invested in that fundraiser,” read one response. “I’m annoyed they pivoted to a non-vegan business even if I still get paid because that’s why I invested in the first place.”
It’s a complaint that speaks to an issue beyond garden-variety vegan militantism. Many investors contributed to a crowdfunding campaign thinking their money was going to support a vegan business. Instead, the resulting Wellness Counter has few vegan options, and the exclusively vegan restaurant Wellness Sushi is now gone.
To be fair, much of this can be chalked up to a simple miscommunication, but communication hasn’t been one of the Wellness team’s strong points. Replying to Facebook comments, for instance, isn’t the most efficient means of conveying business updates. Further complicating the matter is the rather fluid nature of the information provided. In one comment, the owners indicate they’re looking for a new location, and in another they point to financial struggles as behind the closure, leading some commenters to accuse them of deception.
Westword has reached out to the Lees via email and phone to get clarity on the status of Wellness Sushi and for a response to the complaints made so far and will update this story if and when we hear back. In the meantime, while Wellness Counter has enjoyed a positive response outside of the vegan community to its Boulder debut, the restaurant has some work to do to win back its vegan base.
“I think it is safe to say that very few of us vegans from Denver will be going to Wellness Counter,” writes one on Facebook. “We spent a lot of money supporting a vegan business just for it to shut down on us and move away to serve fish now and lose most of our dishes. Why would I drive to Boulder and go to a restaurant that serves fish? Most of us can’t stand that smell anymore. You moved away and we are moving on.”
