Denver Food Truck Pepe's Has Perfected Tortas and Burgers | Westword
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This Food Truck Has Perfected Tortas and Burgers

The owner of Pepe's Tortas and Burgers is originally from Mexico City and moved to Colorado with his family in search of the American dream.
The tortas at this food truck are made on telera rolls from San Antonio Bakery.
The tortas at this food truck are made on telera rolls from San Antonio Bakery. Chris Byard
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The owner of Pepe's Tortas and Burgers, Jose Garayoa (aka Pepe), is originally from Mexico City and came to Denver in the early ’90s with a friend. "Once I got here, I remember seeing this place — for me, it was one of the most beautiful places. There were so many good people in the city, and then when I saw it snowing and everything, I was like, I have to be here. I have to stay here. I've got to do something that can keep me going here," he recalls.

Garayoa began searching for work and ultimately found himself in the kitchen despite having no formal culinary training or experience at the time. "I learned about cooking by watching my mom and going places I liked to eat, but I never got into the business at all in Mexico," he says. "I learned cooking over time. I never went to school or university, but I learned here through all the places that I have worked.'

In 2001 he launched his first truck, Los Parados del Pepe. "I was parking it at Evans and Monaco and was successful for many years. But I had to close it down because I moved locations. I decided to move to Federal Boulevard, and it was a big mistake," he recalls. "It was like I had to start all over again. It took me ten years to get this business running, but I never had my business vision together and had to shut down."

He sold his truck and moved into the meat industry, launching Garayoa's Enterprise. "I got my wholesale license and sold to restaurants, food trucks — anybody," he says. "I did that for about ten years and then closed my business and started working as a waiter to save money."
click to enlarge a black food truck
Pepe's Tortas and Burgers has been in business since 2018.
Chris Byard

Despite having to start from scratch once more, Garayoa kept working hard. "That is why this is a great country, because of chances. I know the economy is bad for many reasons, but man, if you have the effort, that is all you need," he says.

On September 1, 2018, Garayoa officially launched his second food truck. Going into his sixth year as the owner of Pepe's Tortas and Burgers, he admits that he's had to make some adjustments. "Tortas and burgers were the initial idea, but then people started asking for tacos and quesadillas, and I started to do that," he explains. "I realized I was losing customers because I didn't have what they were looking for. To tell the truth, there are not a lot of people who know about tortas. The Hispanic people do, but every day, I get questions about what a torta is."

Simply put, he adds, it's a sandwich — one made on a soft roll with various proteins. At Pepe's, each is topped with mayo, tomatoes, avocado, pickled jalapeños, onion and cilantro.

Even though he's expanded his menu, tortas are Garayoa's passion. "I visited twelve bakeries to find the bread I was looking for," he notes. "I found one called San Antonio Bakery, and they make the best telera rolls. I can say everything is made from scratch. I don't buy frozen products. I buy and grind my meat."

His favorite is the torta milanesa, made with top round steak that he marinates before breading and frying it. "It's delicious and very easy to eat," he says.
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The Diablo burger, with pepper Jack cheese, grilled onions, jalapeños and housemade Diablo sauce.
Chris Byard
For the burgers, his experience in the meat industry has been key. He knows how to source and select high-quality beef — and it shows. On the off chance that he finds himself craving a burger over a torta, his go-to is Pepe's Burger, a 1/3-pound beef patty topped with pepper Jack cheese, bacon and avocado sauce. "The Diablo burger is very popular," he adds. It's topped with grilled onions, pepper Jack cheese, diced jalapeños and a special Diablo sauce.

"There's definitely something unique in Pepe's Tortas and Burgers in the way that I always try to do whatever is right — not whatever I like, but what is right," Garayoa concludes. "I would like to leave a little mark, one way or another. I do my best to bring the best from my people."

To find the truck's full schedule, visit pepestortasandburgers.org.
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