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No. 10: Pierogi of the Day at Rebel Restaurant
Rebel Restaurant in River North isn’t a Ukrainian restaurant; owners Bo Porytko and Dan Lasiy have way too much up their culinary sleeves to settle on one style of food. But they certainly know their way around Slavic specialties. So while the menu bounces around the globe from week to week with touches of kimchi one day, gnocchi the next, or even a whole octopus with a smattering of accoutrements (something that would have made my Ukrainian grandmother shriek with terror), there’s always pierogi on the daily roster, although the fillings and sauces range as widely — and wildly — as the rest of Rebel’s offerings.
While you might find your pierogi plumped with foie gras and mushrooms, for example, or more traditional potato and smoked cheese, the beauties in the photo above are packed with juicy shredded pork and sit atop a thick slurry of green chile (definitely in the New Mexico vein, in case you’re a purist).
Those who grew up with the Slavic dumplings common to Polish and Ukrainian kitchens know that there are first-day and second-day pierogi. When they’re made fresh, they’re simply boiled and served with buttery sauteed onions and maybe some sour cream. As leftovers, they’re pan-fried to a golden crisp. Rebel’s are first-day pierogi, with tender skins of just the right thickness to yield a toothsome bite and a mildly doughy flavor that, combined with pork and green chile, brings to mind the essence of a fresh flour tortilla.
There are so many other distractions at Rebel — whole roasted animal heads, vegetarian schnitzel, house-cured sardines — that something as simple and homey as a pierogi can escape attention, so make sure and order a couple up front before perusing the rest of the menu.
We’re continuing to count down the best dishes in the city — from longtime classics that keep us coming back to new additions that have caught our attention. If there’s a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section, or shoot us an e-mail at cafe@westword.com.
Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2015 countdown are linked below.
No. 100: Chile Relleno at La Fiesta
No. 99: Gurage Kitfo at Megenagna Ethiopian Restaurant
No. 98: Cochinita Pibil at Work & Class
No. 97: The Greggers Tongue Sandwich at Olive & Finch
No. 96: Baum Cakes at Glaze by Sasa
No. 95: Goat hot pot from Viet’s
No.94: Head cheese from Beast + Bottle
No. 93: Kettle Chips from Amerigo Delicatus
No. 92: Pork Belly Confit at Solera Restaurant and Wine Bar
No. 91: Tacos Campechanos from La Calle Taqueria
No. 90: Biscuits from Denver Biscuit Co.
No. 89: Clams and Chorizo at Gozo
No. 88: Aburi Sushi at Sushi Den and Izakaya Den
No. 87: Kimchi and Sausage Torta at City, O’ City
No. 86: Mar y Tierra Molcajete at Paxia
No. 85: Crispy Pork Spare Ribs at Table Top
No. 84: Chips and Dip at Euclid Hall
No. 83: Chile Relleno Burrito at El Taco de Mexico
No. 82: Scallop Crudo at Stoic & Genuine
No. 81: Ceylon Curry Dosa at Khazana
No. 80: The Lambada Torta at La Torteria
No. 79: Pork Bulgogi at Dae Gee
No. 78: the Pulled Pork Pig Pen Sandwich at Boney’s
No. 77: IPA Mac & Cheese at Hops & Pie
No. 76: Chiles en Nogada at Chili Verde
No. 75: Udon Noodle Bowl at Bones
No. 74: Cinnamon Rolls at the Duffeyroll Cafe
No. 73: Smoked Turkey Croque-Madame at Acorn
No. 72: Pickled Lake Michigan Perch at Trillium
No. 71: Oysters at Jax Fish House Glendale
No. 70: Venezuelan Tostadas at Empanada Express Grill
No. 69: Tahini Cauliflower from Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs
No. 68: The Ham and Cheese Tartita from Maria Empanada
No. 67: Ronnie’s Favorite from Rosenberg’s Bagels and Deli
No. 66: Shoo-fly Pie from the Long i Pie Shop
No. 65: Czech Potato Pancakes at Sobo 151
No. 64: Fried Chicken at the Post Brewing Co.
No. 63: Braised Brisket Sandwich at Masterpiece Delicatessen
No. 62: The Scotch Egg from Argyll Whisky Beer
No. 61: Butternut Squash Ravioli at DiFranco’s
No. 60: Sesame Balls at Vinh Xuong Bakery
No. 59: Curry Puffs at Suvipa Thai Food
No. 58: Diavola Pizza at Pizzeria Locale
No. 57: Chorizo Breakfast Stew at DJ’s 9th Avenue Cafe
No. 56: The Rare Beast Sandwich at Salt & Grinder
No. 55: 48-Hour Short Ribs at Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
No. 54: Marrow Bone Brulee at Mercantile Dining & Provision
No. 53: Prawns and Pork Belly at Blackbelly Market
No. 52: Belgian Waffles from Waffle Up
No. 51: Nashville Hot Chicken at Lou’s Food Bar
No. 50: Breakfast Burrito from Chickee’s Lil Kitchen
No. 49: Monkfish and Romanesco at TAG
No. 48: Cabeza Tacos at Taqueria El Trompito
No. 47: Pupusas Revueltas at Pupuseria San Salvador
No. 46: Sesame Pockets at Golden Plate II
No. 45: Tuna Mousse at Cart-Driver
No. 44: Tavern Tots at the Highland Tavern
No. 43: Carne Asada Fries at North County
No. 42: Pho at Wonderbowl
No. 41: Shredded Bison at Tocabe
No. 40: Nachos al Pastor from Tony Guacamole
No. 39: Prosciutto Pop Tart from Bakin’ Bakery
No. 38: Ham and Egg Congee at Onefold
No. 37: Lao Sausage at the Asian Cajun
No. 36: Pan Bagnat at Fuel Cafe
No. 35: Meatloaf Sandwich at City Bakery Cafe
No. 34: Okonomiyaki at Kobe An
No. 33: Farrotto Piccolo at Basta
No. 32: Fried Gizzards at Catfish King
No. 31: My Wife’s Donuts at Osaka Ramen
No. 30: Foie Gras Bonbons at Milk & Honey Bar Kitchen
No. 29: Gnocchi Maison au Canard Fume at Z Cuisine
No. 28: Mysore Thali at Masalaa
No. 27: The Papa Bear at Cub’s Q Barbeque
No. 26: Xiaolongbao at Shanghai Kitchen
No. 25: Bake Rice With Porkchop at Hong Kong Cafe
No. 24: A Burger at Bob’s Atomic Burger
No. 23: The Emma Farms Wagyu Beef Burger at Edge Restaurant & Bar
No. 22: Parma Italia Pizza at Blue Pan Pizza
No. 21: Purple Cow Ice Cream at Little Man Ice Cream
No. 20: Colorado Striped Bass Crudo at Beatrice & Woodsley
No. 19: Mongolian BBQ Duck Buns at Linger
No. 18: Pink Lady Roll at Sushi Sasa
No. 17: Fried Green Tomatoes at Sassafras American Eatery
No. 16: Deep-fried Cornbread at Sons of Scullery
No. 15: House-smoked Pulled Pork Sandwich at the Universal
No. 14: Bruschetta at Postino LoHi
No. 13: Pimento Cheese at Dunbar Kitchen & Tap Room
No. 12: Takoyaki at Sakana Sushi & Ramen
No, 11: The Polpetta Sandwich at Sarto’s
