The Ten Biggest Denver Food Stories of 2023

For years, the Mile High's dining scene has been getting better and better...and bigger and bigger. We reported nearly 300 new bars and restaurants in the metro area over the past twelve months — places that spanned cuisines, neighborhoods and price points.

But as we dug into the ever-changing culinary landscape, other big stories and trends emerged. Here's a rundown of the Denver food news that had an impact in 2023:

The Pink Palace
It seemed like every single person in Denver (and beyond) was seeing pink in 2023. The ownership saga of Casa Bonita dominated headlines in 2022, and going into the new year, expectations were high as the public was promised a May reopening of the renovated edition of this local landmark under its new owners, South Park creators Trey Parker and Matt Stone.

We followed the growing fervor throughout the first half of the year, as people created songs, poems and other odes in its honor. There was an auction for Casa Bonita-themed personalized license plates (we want to know who nabbed "Butters"). Cartoonist Karl Christian Krumpholz shared a visual history of the place in a Westword cover story, and later got hit with a trademark complaint for the Casa Bonita items he was selling in an Etsy shop.

 An unofficial Facebook group caused a stir when thousands of people joined and promised to line up outside the doors, though the kibosh was put on that plan when the actual opening strategy was revealed — after the May deadline.

Instead of just swinging the doors open to everyone at once, which surely would have caused some chaos, Casa Bonita began sending out ticket links in June to people who signed up for its email list. And that's still the way things are operating six months later. While it's a frustrating process for those still waiting for their "golden ticket," the strategy has definitely helped control the crowds, making the experience much more enjoyable for those heading in to visit.
The Comebacks
Casa Bonita wasn't the only place to make a notable comeback this year. Beloved Japanese eatery Domo is once again serving guests after a two-year hiatus prompted by a viral TikTok that brought unwanted crowds to the intimate eatery run by a small staff.

King of Wings was closed for over a year after a kitchen fire, but finally welcomed fans back in March despite battling many permitting delays in Wheat Ridge. Little Carmine's, which had been shuttered since the pandemic, is serving sandwiches again. After messy allegations at El Rancho left its doors closed, restaurateur Frank Bonanno stepped in to reopen the place. A car that crashed into the front of Chula in Englewood shuttered the eatery shortly after owner Myrna Soltero Diaz rebranded the former 4G's outpost, but two months later, she was able to get back to business.

And though diner favorite Danny's Carnation was forced to shut down after a developer bought the building, owner Danny Hopkins decided to resurrect it in a new, much larger location that he dubbed Danny Ray's. So many customers came to support the business during its opening weekend in April, it had to pause to restock supplies.
The Closures
As the industry continues to struggle with rising costs and other challenges, many beloved favorites were forced to close. Some, like Twin Dragon and El Tepehuan in Englewood, Piccolo, Blake Street Tavern, Sam's No. 3 in Aurora, BookBar, Barry's on Broadway, Truffle Table and Bittersweet, had been open for a decade or more. Others, like City Bakery Cafe, Savory Vietnam, Bellota at the Source, Plates by the Pound and Goed Zuur, had shorter runs but still left a lot of fans hungry for another taste. And there were a handful of spots, like the Hard Rock Cafe on the 16th Street Mall, that won't really be missed by locals.
The Awards
When the James Beard Awards announced its winners in June, Colorado was completely shut out. At the time, lone local finalist chef Michael Diaz de Leon of Id Est Hospitality Group's Brutø predicted that Michelin would make its way to the state. That same month, the tire company did indeed announce that its first Colorado guide was coming. And when the full list of honorees was announced in September, Diaz de Leon was seeing stars: Brutø was one of five restaurants in the state to earn one.

While we're certain that diners can expect more additions to Michelin's recommended, Bib Gourmand and starred lists in 2024, will Brutø retain its position? Diaz de Leon served his final meal at the restaurant on December 17; he plans to spend time traveling and enjoying his family, with the goal of opening his own eatery in 2025. It has not been announced who will take the helm at Brutø.
The New LoHi
Around 2009, when Root Down opened in the Highland neighborhood, that part of town became the hottest dining destination. While it's maintained its status as a prime place to eat and drink, other areas, like RiNo, have been getting much of the buzz in recent years. But 2023 — especially the last few months of it — brought a wave of new places in LoHi, including French bistro Jacques; Carrie Baird's brunch spot, Fox and the Hen; Nana's Dim Sum & Dumplings; Alma Fonda Fina, from chef Johnny Curiel; and a pair of Japanese eateries, Kumoya and Kawa Ni.
The Larimer Square Shuffle
In December 2020, Larimer Square was sold to Asana Partners; we predicted a lot of changes for the historic block, and we saw plenty in 2023. Last New Year's Eve marked the end of Green Russell and Russell's Smokehouse, as well as Bistro Vendôme, though that eatery was able to move to a new location in Park Hill. This year, restaurateur Troy Guard shuttered the Larimer Square outpost of Bubu, and Ted's Montana Grill closed after two decades. As construction continues, we're watching closely to see what may be coming to Larimer Square in the future — and what else might say goodbye.
The Asian Food Boom
Yuan Wonton owner Penelope Wong was one of our people to watch in 2023. The owner of the popular food truck went on to successfully open a brick-and-mortar version of her business — which shares a space with two other concepts, including Thuy by PKR. They're just two of many AAPI-owned restaurants that debuted this year, several of which are helmed by first-generation Asian Americans now pushing the scene in exciting new directions. Other additions, like the Coark Collective Food Hall in Centennial, have made it easier for those in the suburbs to access a variety of Asian fare.
The ’Burbs
With many local chefs and aspiring owners priced out of real estate in and close to downtown, some are opting to open in the suburbs instead. That's a trend we noticed last year, and one that has only gotten more prominent since. Established businesses like Blue Pan, Denver Biscuit Company and the Cherry Cricket all opened locations outside of Denver this year, and spots like Oliver's and Provolino opted for spaces south of town in shopping centers anchored by grocery stores because of the ample parking and affordable rent.
The (Slow) Return of Late-Night Eats
More than three years after bars and restaurants were forced to close because of the pandemic, effectively taking out the nightlife scene — and late-night dining along with it — people are going out again, and restaurants want to feed them. Chefs like Dave Hadley, who just moved his Samosa Shop into Honor Farm, and the crew at Caddywampus, which serves out of Gold Point in RiNo, are primed to satisfy the cravings of those who are going out long after most other restaurants close up shop.
The Losses
This year, the city lost a number of people who were a formative part of building Denver's dining scene into what it is today, including Table 6 owner Aaron Forman, longtime Vesta executive chef Matt Selby, and restaurateurs Mel and Janie Master, who were behind spots like Mel’s, Top Hat and Starfish, and who opted to pass peacefully together at a voluntary assisted-dying association in Basel, Switzerland. The losses brought sorrow, but also moments of reflection and admiration for the contributions these individuals made.