Best Seafood Dish in a Non-Seafood Restaurant
Vesta
Chef Nicholas Kayser took over the kitchen at Vesta last fall, ushering in a new era (and ditching the “dipping grill” descriptor) for the twenty-year-old LoDo restaurant. Among Kayser’s new roster of dishes is a lobster cioppino that has its roots in San Francisco’s Italian fishing community, but which the chef has accented with a French flourish. Mussels, clams, shrimp and sea bass all swim together in a saffron-tomato broth, lending flavors both bright and earthy. A curled lobster tail joins the pool party, carrying a saffron rouille straight from the coast of Provence. The dish is so evocative of seaside vacations and wharf-front seafood shacks that diners with fond memories of trips from long ago might get a little misty with nostalgia.