A classic eggs Benedict at Maddie's is like coming home for the Hollandaise. In this brunch-crazed city, where restaurants offer creative takes on every eggy dish under the rising sun, Maddie's stands out for sticking with tradition. Last fall, Maddie's made the move from its original tiny cottage to a big new home next door, built diner-style from the bones of a former service station; the retro digs serve as a good backdrop for a simple but delicious eggs Benedict, veering from the standard formula only by slipping some smoked Gouda between the ham and poached egg. Hollandaise sauce adds a sunny lemon zing, and the whole thing is built on, yes, an English muffin; there's nary a fried polenta cake or wedge of artisan bread to be found. A vegetarian version can be had, too, which swaps out the ham for sauteed veggies. If you're really feeling crazy, there's also a bagel-and-lox Bennie, which is really just a bagel-and-lox sandwich with a poached egg on top.
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